This is a beautiful late 1930s 18ct Gold Cartier DuoPlan, back-wind, ladies dress watch, Reference 8544, 21mm x 32mm.
Cartier used an exceptional piece of innovation and design in this watch, by powering it with the Jaeger DuoPlan movement. The movement is the calibre 409, operating at a hi-beat of 21600 VPH as opposed to the 18000 VPH movement. The is keeping time to -60 seconds a day, with an amplitude of 240 and a beat error of 0.0m/s, having been serviced by the previous owner.
The original glass remains intact, acting as a beautiful window to the dial which is classic Cartier with the simple, elegant signing and black Roman numerals. The glint of the thermally blued Breguet style hands in the light is bright and enticing.
The case is crafted to a high standard in 18ct gold, as would be expected from the famous jewellery house. The case measures 21mm x 32mm. It has rounded ogival lugs, with sit nearly on the edge of the rectangular, flat sided case. The glass sits within a slight raised rectangular bezel. The case back is faceted, with the Duoplan style crown to the top. The crown is original with directional arrow engraving to ensure correct winding. Inside the case you find the movement with a stainless steel dust cover. The dust cover is signed ‘EJ’ within a lozenge, a classic Cartier signing. Internally it is signed 8554 which matches the gold case back reference.
It comes on an Italian Alligator strap, with a pink gold Cartier deployment clasp, signed ‘EJ’.
It is a former Sotheby’s lot, having sold in the “Good Clocks, Watches, Wristwatches , Barometers, Mechanical Music and Scientists Instruments” auction of the 6th & 7th March 1997.
Please see the images as these compliment and aid the description provided below.
Dial:
The classic and beautiful Cartier dial with the simple, elegant signing and black Roman numerals, set to a cream tone base. The paint that has been hidden by the case is still white. The dial has aged to this cream tone through exposure to sunlight.
Consultation with experts suggests the dial is original and not restored. However, with this being a reference/model of which no others are easily visible, comparison against an exact dial is not possible. This opinion has been formed, looking at other dials of the era, as well as assessing the aging and the manner in which the dial is painted.
The dial is in good condition for the age. All signing and tracks are clean and without wear. It is completely original. The dial tone is cream and has some areas with darker dirt deposits. There are some light marks to the paint, with one more noticeable exhibit at 7 O’clock, but this does not detract from the overall clean condition for the age.
Hands:
The hands are original and of the Breguet style, with a thermally Blued finish, which is still very bright in the light.
Glass:
The original glass remains in excellent condition. It has no surface scratches and provides a great window for the dial.
Crown: The crown is the original Duoplan crown. It has the directional arrow engraving to ensure correct winding. It is a left-hand thread to ensure that it can’t come un-done during winding. It functions as it should, pulling out to set the time, and winding the mainspring when turned left.
Case:
The case is crafted to a high standard in 18ct gold, as would be expected from the famous jewellery house. It measures 21mm wide x 32mm long, including lugs. It is rectangular with flat sides and a flat top section. The glass sits within a slight raised rectangular bezel. It sits neatly over the case back, with a two-piece design. The front is held in place by four case screws, two either side. The Rounded Ogival lugs are attached to this section of the case and have screw in lugs, formed of gold, to secure the strap.
Caseback:
The case back is formed of 18ct gold. The case back is faceted, with the Duoplan crown to the top. The crown is original with directional arrow engraving to ensure correct winding. The numerical references to the rear are hand printed. It is numbered ‘8554’ & ‘034469’. The reference 8554, matches the reference on the outside of the movement dust cover. It is in average condition for the age. It doesn’t have any deep scratches or dents but does have multiple light surface scratches. The numbers are also less crisp due to the wear of the gold against the wrist, the same of which can be said for the directional arrow on the crown.
Inside of caseback:
The inside is signed ‘4078’. It consists of a central rectangular movement housing made of 18ct gold. To the four corners guide the case screws, to secure the case neatly.
Movement cover:
The movement cover is made of Stainless Steel and has peerlage finishing to the exterior and interior. It is signed “8554” which matches the number to the rear of the gold case back. The inside of the movement cover is signed “EJ”, as with many Cartier watches of the era. This stood for Edmond Jaeger, who was a French clock and watch maker, who lived until 1922. He created watches for Cartier, whilst also having a close partnership with LeCoultre & Cie, being central to the origins of Jaeger LeCoultre. The partnership between Louis Cartier and Edmond Jaeger begin in the early 20th century, with a contract signed making all Jaeger movement for a period of 14 years, exclusive to Cartier. Even after Edmonds death in 1922, the collaboration continued. In the industry JLC were known as ‘the watchmaker’s watchmaker”. Francesca Cartier Brickell, a relative of Louis-Francois Cartier, recently published a book on the French jewllery brand’s history. She stated that her grandfather, Jean-Jacques, used their movements for his Cartier London creations in the 1950s and 1960s as he felt they were the best.
Movement:
The movement is a Jaeger DuoPlan movement. It is signed “Swiss, Jaeger, Fab Suisse, Adj. To Temp. Two 2 Pos. Fifteen 15 jewels”. The specific calibre reference is 409, which is the largest in the family, measuring 10.50 x 23.00 x 4.00 mm. It existed in both 18,000 vph and 21600 vph versions. This version is the 21600 vph version. The DuoPlan was seen as a great piece of innovation at the time. An early 1930s advert stated that is “Revolutionized watchmaking”. This was due to the precision and safety of its function, allowing Jaeger to offer guarantees on the durability and function, that were not usual in the industry.
This specific movement exists in a collaboration with Cartier so lacks the Stainless-Steel case, as well as the sapphire crystal. Instead, this watch has a cut glass, more suited to the expert creation that surrounds the Cartier name.
The movement is keeping time to -60 seconds a day, with an amplitude of 240 and a beat error of 0.0m/s.
Strap:
The strap is a new high quality Genuine Italian Alligator strap. The strap will fit up to a 8” wrist diameter.
Case dimensions:
The case is petite in size and would class as too small for gentlemen. It is therefore a larger ladies wrist watch.
Case width: 19mm
Case length: 25mm
Case length lug to lug: 31mm
Case Depth: 7mm
Lug width: 12mm