Please note: I was informed after discussing with a collector, that the dial is in-correct for this case reference, despite being era correct, this watch should have a black and silver dial.
A brief introduction to the Polerouter:
The watch was designed by Gerald Genta, who is responsible for some of the watch industrys most iconic and loved designs. SAS opened their Copenhagen to Los Angeles flights using the polar circle as a shortcut, decreasing flight time from 36 hours, to 22. However going via the North Pole, had the major issue of magnetism. They required new navigation systems to be able to carry out this flight, but they needed watches capable of resisting the magnetism. The Polerouter was the watch to adorn the pilots wrists whilst going over the North Pole and thus, a legendary model was born. The first model was released in 1954. It had a 34.5mm case, with no date and the famous inner texture ring around the dial. The original watches had the Cal 138 SS bumper automatic movement, but in 1955 UG updated the line to include the new 215 micro-rotor automatic movement.
This watch dates to the late 50s to 1960. One feature that continues to make this Polerouter date so popular, is the integration of the Trapezoidal date window, which squeezes the font of the date. Sadly this model lacks the original crystal which has a magnifier that matches the date windows shape. These are very rare and hard to find now. The watch was high-end at the time and that is clear still, due to it’s beautiful and considered design elements. In the late 1950s, a Stainless Steel model, like this, was priced at the same level as a Rolex Explorer.
This example:
The case measures 35.5mm x 35.5mm with a lug to lug measurement of 44.75mm. The case is only 10mm deep which makes this a very comfortable and neat watch to wear, whilst still offering good proportions. It is made from Stainless Steel and is in good condition with light surface scratching. The sides have a polished finish. It would appear to have been sympathetically polished in the past.
The dial is original and is in good condition. The dial base is silver in tone, with an even speckled patina which is quite neat. The minute track for the watch is within the outer silver ring. It has graduations from 1 – 60 for the minutes, with Radium lume pips on every hour mark.
The dial is signed Universal Geneve Polerouter Date and 12 O’clock, with applied Logo. At 6 O’clock the dial is signed Automatic, Microrotor, Swiss. All signing is in excellent original condition, without wear.
The outside of the dial has the exceptionally iconic textured chapter ring for the hour marker. It is in good condition, with no deep scratching or discolouration. It does have some light surface scratching but this is to be expected with age. The date window is Trapezoidal and has a fantastic 3D design. It is in very good condition, with no visible wear. The date panel its self is in good condition with a light silver tone and original black painted numerals.
The hands are original, and they are in very good condition. They are silver in tone and Dauphine in style with lume in-fill. The lume has been replaced with a good tone for the watch.
The crystal is a well-matched replacement, which fits the low profile of the watch. The crystal also doesn’t distort any aspect of the dial. It has some light surface scratching but nothing noticeable without a loupe.
The crown is original and is made of Stainless Steel. It has the universal Geneve logo on it, which remains in good condition. The bezel is in good condition, being smooth with only light surface scratching.
The exterior of the case back is clean with the Universal Geneve Polerouter name, with the globe logo for the model.The case back is made of Stainless Steel and is in average condition.
The strap is a new black, good quality leather strap which was handmade in Belgium. It will fit up to an 8.5” wrist.
The movement is original and is a Universal 215-1 which dates from 1958-1960. It is a micro-rotor automatic. The service history of the watch is not known, and the watch has not been serviced by ourselves. Functionally the movement is excellent and would appear to have been serviced within the last 5 years.
It has a daily loss of -12 seconds a day, with an amplitude of 285 degrees and a beat error of 0.1 m/s.
Please see the images as these compliment and aid the description provided below.
Dial:
The dial is original and is in good condition. The dial base is silver in tone, with an even speckled patina which is quite neat. The minute track for the watch is within the outer silver ring. It has graduations from 1 – 60 for the minutes, with Radium lume pips on every hour mark. The dial is signed Universal Geneve Polerouter Date and 12 O’clock, with applied Logo. At 6 O’clock the dial is signed Automatic, Microrotor, Swiss. All signing is in excellent original condition, without wear. The outside of the dial has the exceptionally iconic textured chapter ring for the hour marker. It is in good condition, with no deep scratching or discolouration. It does have some light surface scratching but this is to be expected with age. The date window is Trapezoidal and has a fantastic 3D design. It is in very good condition, with no visible wear.
Hands:
The hands are original, and they are in very good condition. They are silver in tone and Dauphine in style with lume in-fill. The lume has been replaced with a good tone for the watch. All hands are original and meet the margins of the dial as they should.
Glass:
The crystal is a well-matched replacement, which fits the low profile of the watch. Sadly, it does not have the magnifier like the original but that is very rare. The crystal also doesn’t distort any aspect of the dial. It has some light surface scratching but nothing noticeable without a loupe.
Crown:
The crown is original and is made of Stainless Steel. It has the universal Geneve logo on it, which remains in good condition. It functions as it should, winding the watch and setting the hands. There is one slight nick to it which is visible in the images.
Bezel:
The bezel is in good condition, being smooth with only light surface scratching.
Case:
The case is made from Stainless Steel and is in good condition with light surface scratching. The sides have a polished finish. It would appear to have been sympathetically polished in the past.
Caseback:
The exterior of the case back is clean with the Universal Geneve Polerouter name, with the globe logo for the model. The case back is made of Stainless Steel and is in average condition. It has only light surface scratching but has suffered from the natural polish against a wrist. This means the rear engraving isn’t perfect, but none-the-less is acceptable for this watch. Inside, it is signed: Acier Inoxydable, HF, Universal Geneve.
Movement:
The movement is original and is a Universal 215-1 which dates from 1958-1960. It is a micro-rotor automatic. The service history of the watch is not known, and the watch has not been serviced by ourselves. Functionally the movement is excellent and would appear to have been serviced within the last 5 years.
It has a daily loss of -12 seconds a day, with an amplitude of 285 degrees and a beat error of 0.1 m/s.