Here we have one of the most standout dress watches you will ever see. An exceptional piece of design dating to 1970 retailed by Bueche Girod and produced by Roy King. In total it comprises of 7 diamond shaped panels, each formed of 18ct gold with the bark texture. They each measure 30.25mm x 30.25mm. Set within the panels are polished cuts of Lapis Lazuli. To the rear, the luxurious bark pattern continues. The central panel contains the watch element, which also has the Lapis Lazuli dial. It has the Bueche Girod signing with the gold tone Daupine hands. The original ‘BG’ signed crown is to the right, with the snap on back securing it in place. It has the 18ct hallmarking from London Assay office, with the ‘RCK’ Roy King makers mark. The movement is a Bueche Girod Calibre 69 (ETA 2512), adjusted to 4 positions. It is manually wound, with a jewel count of 17 jewels and shock proofing. It operates at a frequency of 21,600BPH. It will fit up to an 18.25cm (7.18”) wrist circumference and is a heavy piece, with a total weight of 89.87g.
Roy King
The 1960s saw Roy Kings watch production flourish. Import restrictions on Swiss movements into the UK were lifted, which allowing King to use quality Swiss made movements. He was quick to sign an agency deal with Bueche-Girod which saw them provide movements and him provide goldsmithing artistry.
Bueche-Girod movements were utilised by Cartier, Univeral Geneve, Bulova and others. Robert De Niro wore a woven bracelet watch in white, yellow and rose gold, manufactured by Bueche-Girod (and most likely Roy King) in the Martin Scorses film Casino.
Bueche Girod were founded in 1947 by master watchmaker Vital Bueche and gained a reputation for high quality dress pieces, formed of precious metals with stone dials, gemstones and complex bracelet designs. They were known to use high grade movements and thin calibres to complement their dress design pieces. Production ceased in the 2000s, with the brands beautifully crafted watches becoming very collectable.
By the mid 1960s Roy Kings workshop was thriving, producing 25,000 pieces annually. He was a pioneer of the ‘Bark’ texture on cases and bracelets. He created a bark-finished wedding ring for George Harrison and Pattie Boyd. His clientele included the other Beatles, Tom Jones and Saudi princes.
In this era, he collaborated to create this same design, amongst others, with Omega.
The same design can be seen in Lot 26 from Bonhams sale in knightsbridge London, on the 8th September 2004. A further piece can be seen in Lot 94 from the Bonhams sale on July 21st 2004.
This piece is SUPER expressive, with the use of the panel design, diamond shapes and bark texture to the gold. There is also something very special about Lapis Lazuli.
The Humans valued Lapis Lazuli for over 6500 years, with Afghanistans Badakhshan region being a key source for the stone. It was used in jewellery across the world, passing along the silk roads, reaching the mediterranean and South Asia.
The Akkadians, Assyrians and Babylonians used it for seals and jewellery, whilst the ancient Egyptians viewed it as a ‘heavenly stone’. This led to its use in amulets, ornaments and in burial masks, including that of Pharos Tutankhamun.
The watch is modelled on a 7” wrist circumference.
Please see the images as these compliment and aid the description provided below.
A further condition report is below.
Dial:
The dial is original and is in strong condition. The signing is good and clear, the tone of the Lapis is even. There are some light marks and abrasions to the polished surface.
Hands:
The hands are original and all in very good condition.
Glass:
The cut glass is original. It has some light marks.
Crown:
Original ‘BG’ signed crown, which only light marking.
Case:
The gold sections are all in good condition with clear hallmarking. There is only light surface scratching associated with age.
Lapis Panels:
Top panel has a vertical hairline crack which is hard to see, unless caught in very specific lighting. Second panel form the bottom has hairline cracks to both sides towards the edges. The Bottom panel has faded with calcification.
Caseback:
The snap-on case back is formed of 18ct gold and is in good condition for the age. It has a polished finish to the outside with the brushed face.
Movement:
The movement is a Bueche Girod Calibre 69 (ETA 2512), adjusted to 4 positions. It is manually wound, with a jewel count of 17 jewels and shock proofing. It operates at a frequency of 21,600BPH. Service history is not known but it runs well. It has a +25 second variation a day, with a 310 degree amplitude and a 0.4 m/s beat error.
Case dimensions:
Watch panel:
Width: 30.25mm
Length: 30mm
Depth: 8.1mm
Dial aperture:
20.25mm x 20.25mm
Panels:
30.25mm x 30.25mm
Depth: 3.25mm