For sale we have a seldom seen 1990s Dunhill millennium triple date moonphase watch. It has an incredibly unique case and bracelet design, with two-tone styling, which is un-mistakably neo-vintage in styling. It has a circular centre of the case, with an elongated top and bottom which pair with the bracelet. It has a futuristic saucer shape. The polished gold bezel surrounds the white dial with black roman numerals and day, month and moonphase/sub second dials. The bracelet is original with gold tone centre band and Dunhill logo to the clasp. Inside is the ETA 255.483 movement, which is in good condition, with a new battery.
It comes with a period Dunhill box, with extra links to allow it to fit up to a 7.75” wrist diameter.
The dial is luxurious with its white lacquered finish and in-set sub-dials with gold framing. It is a dial which is both complicated and well balanced. The large roman numerals mark the hours, with the date track around the outside of the dial. The sub-dials are well balanced with the day to the left, month to the right and the sub-seconds and moonphase above 6 O’clock. The dial is neatly signed with the Dunhill name below 12 O’clock. The moonphase disc is a classic blue night sky background, with gold moon and stars.
The use of stainless steel and gold tone, combined with the bracelet design, draws similarities to that of Cartier’s designs in the 1980s and 1990s. This is an unmistakably neo-vintage design with its use of an explorative central case design and bracelet attachment.
The pebble/saucer style case measures 32mm wide, with a 34.25mm width with crown. The length of the case is 38.75mm to the point where the bracelet attaches. It is a petite, dressier sizing, which aims to wear larger due to the integration with the bracelet.
It has a neat brushed finish, following the line of the case. The top and bottom of the case are elongated to a central band, which flows into the bracelet. To the right, there is a crown guard with a gold tone crown with luxurious twisted finish. To the rear is snap on case back which has the original signing, with black in-fill.
The bracelet has rectangular brick links, with brushed finish and gold centre band. It is easy to adjust with the pin slide system to the centre of the links on the rear. The bracelet has a double lock system on the butterfly deployment. It has the gold Dunhill logo proudly adorning it.
Inside is the ETA calibre 255.483 movement. It is a quartz movement, with 7 jewels. It is packed full of functions, displaying the hours, minutes and sub-seconds. It also displays the day, date, month and moonphase.
We see this as a luxurious watch, with unique design, which comes at a reasonable price. A little-known watch, with the innovative design and class that has always been associated with Dunhill. It’s a real head turner.
Dunhill:
Founded in 1893, Alfred Dunhill LTD is a British luxury goods brand, specialising in ready-to-wear, custom and bespoke menswear, leather goods and accessories.
Dunhill are well known for motoring accessories, lighters, clothing and wrist watches. The offering of watches dates back to 1903 in Dunhill stores. The company was known for offering innovative designs, particularly during the Art Deco period, with some incredibly well made and valuable watches.
Full condition report below. Please see the images as these compliment and aid the description provided below.
Dial:
The dial is original and is in good condition. It has no obvious marking. The signing is good with no signs of wear.
Hands:
The hands are original and are black painted. They are in good condition, with no wear.
Glass:
The sapphire crystal is original and is in good condition with no marking.
Crown:
The crown is original with the knurled finish. The gold plate is in good condition with no obvious wear.
Case:
The case is Stainless Steel and is in good original condition. It has a brushed finish which is good and original. There is some light surface scratching. There are a couple of small spots of corrosion, one at 9 O’clock near the bezel, and two near 12 O’clock by the bezel. The gold-plated bezel has a polished finish, with some light marking but no obvious wear.
Caseback:
The case back is formed of steel and is in good condition for the age. The engraving is clear, with the black infill to the text. It has the original brushed finish. There is some light surface scratching. It has some small brown marking.
Strap:
The watch comes on its original bracelet with spring release links. It is formed of stainless steel and has the original brushed finish. It has gold plated links to the centre. It has a double locking butterfly deployment clasp, with the Dunhill logo. It has light surface scratching associated with age. It has enough links to fit a 7.75” wrist circumference.
Movement:
The movement is an ETA 255.483. It is a quartz movement, with 7 jewels.
It has displays the hours, minutes and sub-seconds. It also displays the day, date, month and moonphase.
The day hand is set by cycling the hands between 22-24 hours. The date hand is quickset by turning the first crown position clockwise. It can be turned anti-clockwise to set the moonphase. The month hand is set by cycling the date pointer past 31.
It is keeping accurate time, with a new battery.
Case dimensions:
Case width: 32mm
Case width with crown: 34.25mm
Case length: 31mm
Case length lug to lug: 38.75mm
Case Depth: 6.75mm