Here we have a 1988 First Series Zenith De Luca El Primero chronograph watch, which is the reference 01.0040.400. It has the 40mm stainless steel case with the screw down case back. It has the count-down dive bezel, with aluminium bezel insert. The dial is the gloss black with silver signing. It has the Tachymetre scale to the exterior with the second track with 1/5th second graduations. The hour markers are the printed batons with the luminous in-fill. There are the three sub-dials for the constant seconds, 12-hour counter and 30-minute counter. The date is offset between 4 and 5 o’clock. The hands are the silver tone with the luminous in-fill. To the right is the signed crown, which is sandwiched between the two waterproof pushers. It has the small Zenith logo to the centre of the case with the reference signing. Inside is the Zenith El Primero calibre 400Z which has been well maintained and has a daily variation of 1 second per day. The watch is presented on the Zenith Stainless Steel bracelet, with divers’ extension, which has the signed clasp.

The watch comes with a more modern inner and outer box. It has the El Primero instruction booklet and un-signed guarantee, which are both also later. It comes with an invoice for a Zenith service in 2003.

The De Luca:
Mechanical was cool again in the late 1980s, but Zenith were slow to offer their own model after supplying Rolex for the Daytona. The model is known as the ‘De Luca’ after the name of an Italian Zenith agent. He grew frustrated by the lack of variation offered by Zenith and offered the design brief for a new model, which he was convinced would sell to the Italian market.

Zenith saw merit in the design and the first series watch appeared over 1988-89, with a production figure of 1025. It lasted for four variations, being produced until 1996. The design evolved and began to resemble the Daytona more, with protected screw down pushers.

The series 1 did not come with a stainless bracelet, offered only on leather. The series 2 was the first variation with the stainless-steel bracelet.

The watch:
The gloss black dial is rich and deep in its tone which aids legibility, and combined with the silver dial print, this creates a luxurious mix. To the exterior of the dial is the Tachymetre scale. The seconds track has the detailed 1/5th second graduations and the hour markers are the silver printed batons. They are in-filled with the luminous which has a bright glow. 3, 6 and 9 are marked with the luminous dots to differentiate them. The Zenith name is signed below 12 o’clock with the ‘Automatic’ text below. It has the three sub-dials with the constant seconds at 9, 12-hour counter at 6, and the 30-minute counter at 3. They are all inset with the silver tone and grained concentric circles which provide the sunburst effect. The date window is tapered and sits between 4 and 5 o’clock. The date wheel is white with the black Arabic numerals. The hands are of the luminous sword style with the mirror polished finish. It is a design which arcs back to their 1960s chronographs. This is also visible in the design of the central second hand, which has the rectangular luminous section near the tip.

The dial and hands are protected by sleek, domed acrylic crystal.

An aspect you really appreciate when the wear the watch is the sensible proportions, something many brands could learn from today. The width is 40m, stretching to 43.5mm with the crown/pushers. With a slim depth of 13.5mm including the low domed acrylic crystal, this is a sleek companion, capable of sporting wear but equally adept under a shirt cuff.

The case is formed of stainless steel and has the polished finish. The bezel is a classic uni-directional 60-minute count-down dive bezel, with the black aluminium insert. To the right-hand side is the signed crown, sandwiched between the waterproof chronograph pushers.

The case back screws into place and has the ‘small’ Zenith logo to the centre. It is also marked with the model reference.

Inside is the wonderful Zenith El Primero calibre 400Z. It is a Chronometer grade automatic movement which has a jewel count of 31 and a high beat frequency of 36,000BPH. It comprises of 280 different parts.

It is in good condition and appears to have been well maintained in the past. It has a service invoice form Zenith in 2003. It currently keeps time to within -1 second variation per day, with an amplitude of 295 degrees and a beat error of 0.

The bracelet is from a later series model as the original came only on leather. It has the polished centre links, flanked by the brushed links either side. The deployment clasp has the fold over lock to secure it. The bracelet also has divers extension. It will fit up to a 7.25” wrist circumference.

Our thoughts:
The De Luca sits in the neo-vintage category and whilst some models in this era are extraordinarily valuable, with cult followings, the De Luca isn’t one of these models.

This is likely due to its relatively low production and limited marketing. If you ask anyone about neo-vintage Zenith Chronographs, they will much more readily refer you to the Rainbow examples of the 1990s.

Luckily for anyone reading this and considering one today, these factors mean that they remain excellent value for money. With this being our first, the main test is via your wrist and after wearing it, I would wholeheartedly recommend them.

A 1988 Rolex Daytona starts in the £40,000 range. This 1988 Zenith El Primero will set you back under £6000.

The watch is modelled on a 7” wrist circumference.
Please see the images as these compliment and aid the description provided below.
A further condition report is below.

Dial:
The dial is original and is in very good condition. The luminous is more recent, likely carried out during a Zenith service, with the Tritium luminous replaced.

Hands:
The hands appear very fresh and may be Zenith service replacements, but are factory correct. The luminous is the modern tone too.

Glass:
The crystal is acrylic and is in good condition with only some light marks.

Crown and pushers:
The crown is signed with the Zenith logo. The first series is meant to have a non-signed crown, but these are often replaced with signed crowns during later servicing with Zenith. The pushers are original and are in very good condition, functioning well.

Case:
The case is formed of stainless steel and is in strong condition with polished finish.

Caseback:
The case back has been polished in the past. The logo to the centre is well defined. The text and reference signing are visible, but have lost definition. There are no marks from poor opening.

Bracelet:
It is in good condition and has had the surfaces refinished in the past. The signed deployment buckle has the fold over lock which is secure. The bracelet also has divers extension. Without extension, it fits up to a 7.25” wrist circumference.

Movement:
The movement is the Zenith El Primero calibre 400Z. It is a Chronometer grade automatic movement which has a jewel count of 31 and a high beat frequency of 36,000BPH.

It is in good condition and appears to have been well maintained in the past. It has a service invoice form Zenith in 2003. It currently keeps time to within -1 second variation per day, with an amplitude of 295 degrees and a beat error of 0.
 
Case dimensions
Case width: 40mm
Case width with crown: 43.4mm
Case length: 40.25mm
Case length lug to lug: 46.7mm
Case depth: 13.5mm
Lug width: 22mm