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For sale we have a great example of a 1980s Le Cheminant Stainless Steel 200m divers watch. The case is 37mm wide without crown guard, with it also having a very slim profile at 8mm deep. This makes it a very neat wear. It has a Heuer patented case design, Brevet 503305. It is an interesting example of component sharing in the watch making industry. Tag Heuer seemingly provided watches very similar to their 1000 series divers watches, to other brands for their own retail.

It has an intriguing matte finish anthracite tone bezel and dial, with Mercedes style hands with the aged Tritium lume, whilst the dial has aged Tritium arrow hour markers. It also has an unusual mix of Arabic numerals and 24-hour scale inside. There is a date function at 3 O’clock. Inside is the period ETA 955.114 movement which has been refurbished.

It is presented on a its original stainless-steel bracelet with divers extension.


The case is very neat with its 37mm diameter and slim 8mm depth. It still has significant presence on the wrist with its 44.5mm lug-to-lug measurement. If you want a diver that is well proportioned, but sits very comfortably on your wrist, this is the watch for you. The lugs have a brushed finish, whilst the sides are polished. The brushed lugs blend well into the original steel bracelet which has brushed finishing. The crown is protected by the guard and is original. It screws down to provide the 200m water resistance. The uni-directional bezel had a beautiful matte anthracite insert, with 60-minute count down scale. It has a good click and is easy to turn with its sharp edges. The flat crystal is well set level with the bezel.


The dial is the same matte anthracite finish as the bezel. It is a busy, but well-balanced dial. It has simple dash minute/second markers to the exterior, with sharp arrow markers with the aged Tritium lume. Inside it has bold Arabic numerals, with a smaller 24 hour scale inside. The date window is well balanced at 3 O’clock, with the arrow markers. The Le-Cheminant signing is clean and crisp. It is signed T Swiss Made T to the base. It has an attractively aged set of Mercedes style hands, with lollipop luminous second hand. The creamy yellow tone of the lume is very appealing and even in tone.


The screw back is signed with the reference 009-66, as well as steel, 200m rated and Swiss Quartz. Inside it has the reference 5464 with the Brevet number 503305 related to the Tag Heuer cases of the era.


The original 1980s ETA 955.114 movement has been fully refurbished and is functioning very well, keeping reliable time.


Overall, this is a neat, yet eyecatching diver with all the DNA of 1980s Heuer 1000s. With its interesting dial and perfectly aged lume, it is a joy to wear.


Full condition report below. Please see the images as these compliment and aid the description provided below.



The dial is original and is in very good condition. It is a matte anthracite tone. It has Tritium luminous hour markers which have aged to a nice tone. The numerals and signing are all clean and crisp.



The hands are original, of Mercedes style with lollipop second hand. They have the original aged lume. They have some corrosion associated with age.



The mineral crystal is a replacement which is in perfect condition.



The crown is original and is formed of stainless steel. It screws down.



The case is Stainless Steel and is in good original condition. It has polished finishing with light surface scratching consistant with its age.



The case back is formed of steel and is in average condition for the age. It has marking related to poor opening. The engraving is clear, with brushed finish to the face.



The watch comes on its original stainless-steel bracelet which is in good condition with light surface scratching. It has divers extension.



The movement is an ETA 955.114 Quartz movement.


The movement is original and has been serviced. It is working perfectly.


Case dimensions:

Case width: 37mm

Case width with crown guard: 40mm

Case width with crown: 41mm

Case length: 37mm

Case length lug to lug: 44.5mm

Case Depth: 8mm

Lug width: 18mm


1980s Le Cheminant Steel 37mm 200m Diver, Heuer brevet 503305 ref 009-66

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