Here we have a rare and sought after example of a mid 1980s Cartier Santos Carrée ref 2960 with the white dial and black roman numerals. It has the clean and classic 29mm case proportion with the full stainless-steel case and integrated bracelet. The dial is simple and clean with the bright white base tone and black exaggerated roman numerals. The railroad minute track sits within, with the Cartier signing below 12. The date window sits at 3 o’clock with the matching white wheel and black text. The classic sword hands have the bright thermally blued tone, as does the tapered central second hand. The classic angular design of crown sits between the crown guard with the facetted Sapphire Cabochon set within. The case is in excellent condition having been laser welded and refinished by one of the UK’s best renown artisans. The rear of the case is signed with the ‘Santos de Cartier’ text, with the ‘Automatique’ and ‘Swiss Made’ signing. The serial number is still visible which is a huge plus, given many have polished off over years of wear. The integrated bracelet has the signed deployment clasp and will fit up to an 18cm wrist diameter. Inside is the Cartier calibre 077 automatic movement (ETA calibre 2671 base calibre), which has been recently serviced, keeping excellent time with a daily variation within 7 seconds a day.

The first Pilot watch
The Cartier Santos was a pilots watch. Alberto Santos Dumont was a pioneering aviator from Brazil, who in 1904 complained to his friend Louis Cartier, that he had trouble reading the time from a pocket watch while flying. Louis Cartier’s response was to design a thin wristwatch with a rectangular case shape, featuring a manual wind movement. Alberto enjoyed this watch and preferred it to the other wrist options of the era, and so the model got its name from the first wearer, Santos Dumont. It was sold to the general public under the ‘Santos de Cartier’ name in 1911.

It is only fitting that the first Cartier wristwatch remained part of the Cartier line, with its reinvention taking place in 1978. This centred around the used of an integrated bracelet design with the visible screws on the bezel and bracelet. The Santos Galbée was then introduced in 1987, with softer lines and increased curvature to mould to the wrist.

This example
The bright white dial is original and maintains an even tone with the rich gloss black signing. The classic exaggerated radial roman numeral hour markers flow around the dial, pulling towards the corners. The railroad minute/second track sits inside of the markers with the rounded corners. It also has the exaggerated layout with the thicker markers for the 5-minute graduations. Below 12 is the ‘Cartier’ name, with the ‘Swiss’ text to the base of the dial. The date window sits at 3 o’clock and intersects with the edge of the minute track. It has the black framing with the bevelled edges to the window. The wheel is white with the black signing. The hidden Cartier signing is present within the VII numeral. The hands are the original Sword style and have the bright thermally blued tone which catches the light. The central second hand has the neat, tapered finish also shining brightly.

We adore the sizing of this case and view it as a real jack of all trades. The case is well proportioned with the 29mm width without crown. It has a length of just under 29mm. The total lug-to-lug measurement adds significant presence, sitting at 41mm tip to tip. It has a slim depth of 9mm which makes it a comfortable wear. The bracelet is integrated into the case, which is an important part of the Santos’ design, elevating the watch above timekeeping and into the realms of jewellery.

The bezel is stainless steel and has the polished finish, with the classic polished steel screws. It sandwiches the case and the sapphire crystal, which sits flush within the bezel, creating a seamless blend. The main section of the case has the brushed finish to the top with the polished bevel to the edge. The sides of the case continue the brushed finish, with the crown guarded either side. The notched crown has the polished finish with the facetted sapphire cabochon set within the tip. The lugs have a subtle curvature which aids the flow into the integrated bracelet. The bracelet has the flat brushed steel links, with the polished screws to either side. It flows into the deployment clasp, with has the twin C Cartier logo in steel. The clasp has the Cartier signing to the inside, alongside ‘Swiss Made’. It will fit up to an 18cm wrist diameter.

The rear of the case has the polished finish to the edges, with the face having the brushed finish. The signing is clearly defined with the ‘Santos de Cartier’ signing and ‘Automatique, Swiss made’. The serial number is also clear which is a big bonus with this era of Santos. The rear is held in place with the 8 polished screws.

Inside is the Cartier calibre 077 which is a modified ETA 2671. It has a higher standard of finishing with the perlage and Geneve striping to the rotor. The rotor has the text infilled in gold which is a pleasing touch. It has been recently serviced and is keeping accurate time to within 7 seconds variation a day, with an amplitude of 300 degrees and a beat error of 0.0 m/s.

The watch is modelled on a 17.8cm wrist circumference.
Full condition report below. Please see the images as these compliment and aid the description provided below.

Dial:
The dial is original and has an even white tone. The black gloss signing is good and clear. There is slight discolouration to the edges where the case rests against it. There is one light mark between 10 and 11 o’clock. Overall, in very good condition for the age.

Hands:
The hands are original and of sword style. They have the bright thermally blued tone and are in excellent condition.

Glass:
The Sapphire crystal is original and is in very good condition with no marking.

Crown:
The crown is original. It has light marking associated with age. The Sapphire cabochon is good, without any chips or damage.

Bezel:
The bezel is in excellent condition with the mirror polish. Some very light marks.

Case:
The case is in very good condition, having been laser welded and refinishing by one of the UK’s best known, ensuring a sharp finish.

Caseback:
The case back is formed of Stainless Steel and has a brushed finish. There are some light scratches and dints. The finish has been gently brushed in the past. The serial number is visible, and the text is clear with some traces of the original red paint.

Bracelet:
The watch comes on its original bracelet. It is in excellent condition having been laser welded and refinished. It will fit up to an 18cm wrist circumference.

Movement:
Inside is the Cartier calibre 077 which is a modified ETA 2671. It is a shockproof automatic movement with a jewel count of 25. It has been recently serviced and is keeping accurate time to within 7 seconds variation a day, with an amplitude of 300 degrees and a beat error of 0.0 m/s.

Case dimensions
Case width: 29mm
Case width with crown: 32.5mm
Case length: 28.25mm
Case length lug to lug: 41mm
Case depth: 9mm
Lug width: 18mm