Here we have a French icon from 1975, a Boucheron Reflet 18ct yellow gold tank watch. It has the ribbed finish to the case with the matching finish to the dial. The time is indicated by the stick style hour and minute hands. It has the Boucheron leather strap with the patented interchangeable strap system, with the sliding mechanism, ensuring comfort on the wrist with the single piece strap. To the right-hand side is the crown set with the sapphire cabochon. The case back is marked with the ‘Boucheron’ signing with the French hallmarking, strap patent number and serial number. It has a personal engraving ’12 Ranelagh Grove 1975-1978’. Inside is the Swiss and British hallmarking. The movement is a Boucheron calibre 2512, which has been recently serviced and is keeping accurate time. The watch comes without box or papers, but comes with a white Boucheron pouch.

The history:
Founded in 1858 by Frederic Boucheron, the legendary Parisian jeweller offered a unique blend of Art Nouveau and Art Deco design to the well-healed across Europe and Asia.

Post war, European tastes prioritised simplicity and clean architectural lines, as well as innovation, which was an area in which Boucheron excelled. The brand invented and patented three clasp systems, never seen before. These helped to create exacting pieces of jewellery that also told the time.

The Reflet was created in 1947. A seamless timepiece from the Place Vendome jeweller, which reflects clean lines and form over function, while drawing on historical touch points. The ‘gadroons’ on the watch, the raised parallel fluting on the case, were inspired by the architecture of the Place Vendome, where the brand was based since 1893.

Another feature of the Reflet is the Sapphire cabochon crown which gleams and provides a reference to Boucheron’s haute joaillerie roots.

The “ BT” reference on the case back, is not a reference or serial number, it is in fact the French patent numbers for the strap systems. The BT908247 patent seen here was awarded in 1944 and was for the single release strap or bracelet.

The watch:
The case is French made and is formed of 18ct yellow gold. It is elegantly proportioned, suitable for either a gents or ladies wrist. It measures just under 21mm wide without crown and has a length of 31mm. The case has the polished, ribbed finish to the top with the flat sids and curved top and bottom. The dial is simple, matching the ribbed case design. It is the gold tone with the raised linear brushed lines and polished bevelled grooves. The hands are of the stick style and are a gold tone. The dial and hands are protected by the box glass with the bevelled edge.

From the side profile the ingenuity of the case is clear. The scrolled lugs create the cylinder for the strap system to lock into. The flat sides have the brushed finish with the rubbed ‘750’ fineness hallmark.

The case back has the brushed finish to the face. It is the personal engraving to the top ’12 Ranelagh Grove 1975-1978’. To the middle it has the French double eagle head hallmarking. To the bottom it is signed ‘Boucheron Made in France’ with the ‘BT 908247’ patent and the serial number. Inside the case is signed with further 18k gold hallmarking and the case makers mark. The UK assay office import marks from London assay office are present, with the date letter ‘B’ which dates the watch to 1975.

The movement is the Boucheron calibre 2512, which is a re-branded ETA calibre. It is manual wind and has a jewel count of 17 with incabloc shock protection. It has been recently serviced and is keeping time to within 10 seconds variation per day.

The watch comes on the black leather Boucheron single piece strap with locking system. It will fit up to a 7.5” wrist circumference.

Our view:
An obvious reference point and contemporary, both during the era and today, is Cartier. Whilst Cartier’s popularity continues to rise to stratospheric levels, it is felt that Boucheron offer an equally investable and more fascinating proposition. This is due to the lower production numbers, enduring Parisian heritage, refined design and artisanal hand finishing.

We follow the views of respected collectors and dealers Alexandre Tritz and Kevin O’Dell, that the quality of the pieces exceeds that of Cartier. The true test is under the loupe and in the hand and what this unearths is a feel and level of finishing beyond its competition.

The model is enjoying a resurgence with collectors drawn to the scarcity of examples and seamless approach. It is a watch so iconic, there is no need for a name to the dial. The design merely speaks for itself.

The watch is modelled on a 7” wrist circumference.
Please see the images as these compliment and aid the description provided below.
A further condition report is below.

Dial:
The dial is in good original condition with the bright gold tone.

Hands:
The hands are in strong original condition. They have some light scratching and a touch of corrosion to the tip of the minute hand.

Glass:
The glass is original and has signs of ageing. There is a scratch to the top right and a slight chip out of the bevelled edge to the bottom right.

Crown:
The crown is in good original condition. The Sapphire cabochon is well formed with no damage and a good tone.

Case:
The case is 18ct yellow gold and is in decent condition. The top of the case has the good, polished finish. The brushed finish to the sides is worn, with the ‘750’ mark half rubbed. Little dints and marks are visible to the sides.

Caseback:
The snap-on case back is formed of 18ct yellow gold and is in decent condition for the age. The brushed finish is visible. The Boucheron patent number and serial number are less well defined and slightly rubbed.

Strap:
It comes on a Boucheron leather strap which fits the locking system. It is in good condition and secures well. It will fit up to a 7.5” wrist circumference.

Movement:
The movement is the Boucheron calibre 2512, which is a re-branded ETA calibre. It is manual wind and has a jewel count of 17 with incabloc shock protection. It has been recently serviced and is keeping time to within 10 seconds variation per day. It has an amplitude of 300 degrees and a 0.1 m/s beat error.

Case dimensions
Case width: 20.7mm
Case width with crown: 23.2mm
Case length: 31.5mm
Case depth: 6mm
Strap width: 17mm