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The Cartier Tank. An Icon of the watch world. A watch that needs little introduction. worn by some of the most famous and stylish people to live. Jackie Kennedy, Fred Astaire, Cary Grant, Michelle Obama, Yves Saint Laurent and Princess Diana to name a few. Andy Warhol famously said “I don’t wear a Tank watch to tell the time. Actually, I never even wind it. I wear a Tank because it is the watch to wear!”.


In 1976, the in-house Must de Cartier Tank was launched, the first product of the in-house Must line. They were all Vermeil, Silver gilt cases. This has the benefit of making the line more affordable than the traditional solid gold models, whilst still being a precious metal. They were created in multiple sizes, with varied dial designs for both men and women.


The Must De Cartier Tank Vermeil is the most affordable model, but these examples are rapidly increasing in value as interest continuously grows.


-Modelled in photography on a 6" diameter ladies wrist-


This is a 1970s Must De Cartier Tank Vermeil, in ladies size. It has a 925 Silver case, with gold plating and measures 21mm x 28mm. This example has the benefit of its exotic wood effect lacquer dial, with is in outstanding condition, whilst it also have a manual wind mechanical movement. It comes on a period Must De Cartier strap, with gold plated Cartier buckle. It has the original Cartier crown, with classic Sapphire Cabochon setting.


The cases are prone to wear, with the gold plate giving way to the silver underneath on the tips of the lugs. This example has no wear to the plating and has clearly been well cared for in its life. To the rear, the engraving is clear with it being signed “Cartier Paris, 925 Argent, Plaque or G 20M Swiss”. It has the serial number 3040848.


Inside is the mechanical manual wind movement. It is a calibre 78/1 which is an ETA 2512-1. It has 17 jewels, a frequency of 21600 BPH, a power reserve of 44 hours and Incabloc shock protection. The service history is unknown, but the movement is clean and functioning well. It is keeping time to +60 seconds a day.


This is a watch only, with no box or paperwork.


Full condition report below. Please see the images as these compliment and aid the description provided below.



The dial is in Excellent original condition. The lacquer is prone to cracking and crazing, but this is an excellent example. It has no marks or wear.



The hands are original and are a gold tone. They are in good condition but have some slight corrosion to the finish.  



The Sapphire crystal is original. It has some small noticeable marks associated with age.



The crown is original with Sapphire Cabochon.



The case is silver with gold plating and has no wear to the plate. It is in good original condition with polished finish to the front and sides. It has light surface scratching associated with age.



The solid case back is in good condition, with no wear to the gilt plate and clear engraving. It has a bushed finish with light surface scratches.



The watch comes on a Must De Cartier strap, with Cartier gold plated buckle.



The movement is a Cartier 78/1 which is an ETA 2512-1. It has 17 jewels, a frequency of 21600 BPH and a power reserve of 44 hours. It also has Incabloc shock protection.


The service history is unknown, and the watch has not been serviced by ourselves. It is keeping time to +60 seconds a day, with an amplitude of 235 degrees and a beat error of 0.2m/s.


Case dimensions:

Case width: 20.5mm

Case width with crown: 22mm

Case length: 20mm

Case length lug to lug: 28mm

Case Depth: 6.5mm

Lug width: 15mm

1970s Ladies Must De Cartier Tank Vermeil mechanical watch wood dial Silver gilt

Out of Stock
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