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Here we have a beautiful example of a unisex 1960s Vacheron & Constantin, with the 23.5mm square, 18ct white gold case of ultra-thin design. It has the hammered textured finish, which is more free form than usually seen, resembling a bark effect. The hammered finish is also on the white gold dial. The combination of the hammered bezel and dial makes this a standout reference, of which we have not been able to find another. The dial is sleek with the applied hour markers at each quarter, with the Vacheron signing below 12. The hands are similarly elegant with the black stipe to the centre. To the right is the signed crown, with the brushed case back with hallmarking. Inside it has further Swiss hallmarking for 18ct gold with Vacheron signing. The movement is the famous ultra-thin calibre 1003 movement which is in excellent condition, having been recently serviced.

 

The dial is formed of white gold and has the free form hammered texture finish. This is a beautiful finish which interacts with the light, catching the eye with every turn of the wrist. The restrained use of just four applied hour markers at 12, 3, 6 & 9 provides a balance to the dial whilst allowing the texture to take centre stage. The markers are a silver tone with the black painted stipe to the centre. This ties in with the hands, which have the same polished silver tone with the black stripe to the centre. Below 12 the dial is signed with the “Vacheron & Constantin Geneve” name, with simple ‘Swiss’ signing below 6.

 

The case is considered unisex, measuring 23.5mm x 23.5mm. It has short lugs with a lug-to-lug measurement of 27.75mm. The strap width is good at 18mm, which allows the strap to match well with the watch head. With the ultra-thin movement, the case measures just over 4mm deep from the rear to the crystal, making it a very comfortable wear.

The bezel is of the bevelled design, angling downwards with the 4 planes adorned with the free form hammered finish. The crystal sits within a small recess within the bezel, ensuring a seamless finish. The sides of the case are flat, with the polished finish. The lugs also have the polished finish with the slight downturn to meet the wrist. To the right is the Vacheron crown with the Maltese cross logo. The case back rounds of the case nicely with the symmetry in design to the bezel. It has the flat main face with brushed finish, with the bevelled polished sides which meet the flat case side. It has the Swiss hallmarking with the head of Helvetia next to the crown. The back is solid and is held in place with four polished screws, one to each corner.

Inside it is signed with the Vachron & Constantin name, with the full Swiss hallmarking for 18ct gold with head of Helvetia. The Poincon De Maitre Key is the number 3, which is as yet, an unidentified case maker. It has been found on cases of Jaeger-LeCoultre references too.

The case serial number is 417728.

 

The movement is the legendary Vacheron & Constantin calibre 1003, which was first introduced in 1955. It is an ultra-thin manual wind movement, which at the time was the thinnest movement ever produced at just 1.65mm deep.

It is a quality movement which is marked adjusted to positions (5), temperature and isochronism. The level of finishing is excellent with the geneve striping to the bridges and the polished bevelled edges.

The movement serial number is 586,XXX which dates it to approximately 1966. The movement has been recently serviced by our watchmaker. It is keeping time to within 10 seconds a day.

 

The watch is modelled on a 7” wrist circumference.

Full condition report below. Please see the images as these compliment and aid the description provided below.

 

Dial:

The dial is original and formed of white gold and has the hammered finish. It has the 4 applied hour markers in the silver tone with black stripe to the centre. The finish is good, without any marking. The Vacheron and Swiss signing is good and clear.

 

Hands:

The hands are original, of pencil style. They are in good condition. They are a silver tone with polished finish and black stripe to the centre. They have only light marking.

 

Glass:

The sapphire crystal is original and is in very good condition with no marking.

 

Case:

The case is formed of 18ct white gold and in good condition with no dents or deep scratching, only light surface scratches. The textured finish is well defined to the bezel. The sides are polished with light marking. The hallmark to the side has rubbed with winding of the crown but is still visible.

 

Caseback:

The case back is formed of 18ct white gold and is in good original condition. It has the original brushed finish to the face with the polished sides. It is sold and is held in place by four polished screws to each corner. The screwheads are good, with only light marks. The head of Helvetia hallmark is clear and defined.

 

Crown:

The crown would appear to be a later replacement. It is a genuine Vacheron crown, signed with the Maltese cross. It is in good condition with clear logo and only light scratching.

 

Strap:

The watch is on an aftermarket leather strap signed ‘Vacheron & Constantin’. It is not an original or genuine strap, but it is a good match and is very soft and comfortable.

 

Movement:

The movement is a Vacheron & Constantin calibre 1003. It is an ultra-thin manual wind movement, which has a jewel count of 17 and has a frequency of 18,000 BPH. It is adjusted to positions (5) and temperature and isochronism. It is just 1.64mm deep which made it the world’s thinnest mechanical movement at the time.

 

The movement has been recently serviced. It is keeping time to within 10 seconds a day. It has an amplitude of 250 degrees and a beat error of 0.3m/s.

 

Case Dimensions:

Case width: 23.5mm

Case width with crown: 25.25mm

Case length: 23.5mm

Case length lug to lug: 27.75mm

Case Depth: 4.2mm

Lug width: 18mm

 

1960s Vacheron Constantin 18ct white gold ultra-thin tank watch hammered finish

£3,500.00Price
Quantity
Out of Stock
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