For sale we have an excellent 1950s Rotary dress watch, in a 9ct gold square case. It is a very stylish piece with its large front, having a knurled finish, with a smaller square dial and central seconds. The dial is silver with a satin finish and gold tone applied alternating Arabic and arrow markers. The movement is a Rotary branded ETA 1080, with gilt finishing. It has been recently serviced and is working well.
The case has hallmarking from London assay office for 9ct gold. It has the ‘DS&S’ makers mark. David Shackman & sons were based in London and were jewellers who manufactured cases to retail Swiss made watches in the UK market. This was commonplace to avoid import costs on complete watches and gold from other countries, which were very high in this period. They were also known for their excellent quality case and bracelet designs. The machinery they possessed was second to none. This allowed them to come up with their complex bracelet and case finishes in gold. This can clearly be seen on this example with the unusual, knurled finish.
The case is formed of 9ct gold and measures 25.25mm x26mm. It is a petite case, which was gents, but is suitable for a ladies wrist too, due to modern taste. The lug-to-lug measurement is 35.5mm which gives it more presence on the wrist than its strict length. At the end of the day, it’s a neat dress which, which allows the case to do the talking. The design makes the dial secondary with the eye being drawn to the complex knurled finish to the front of the case. This is a kind of craftsmanship not commonly seen. The case has curved edges, with a flat front, sides and rear, making it a joy to wear due to the way the sharp angles reflect the light. The lugs are thin and curved, looping neatly in line with the case design. There is a small lip, acting as a bezel to hold the glass.
The glass is raised, being held by the small lip. It is original and adds a beautiful depth to the watch, with the facetted sides. The smaller dial measures 16.25mm x 17.25mm, with the case taking centre stage. It still has beautiful design touches. Its silver satin finish has a subtle linear graining, whilst the applied Arabic and arrow markers are well executed. The simple underlined Rotary logo is bold and well formed.
The movement is a Rotary cal 725, which is a Rotary branded ETA 1080. It has been customised by Rotary with winged wheel logo to the ratchet wheel and gilt finishing. It is manually wound and has a jewel count of 17. It has been recently serviced and is keeping time to within +/- 10 seconds a day.
Full condition report below. Please see the images as these compliment and aid the description provided below.
The dial is original and is in good condition. It is a silver satin tone which is good and even, with a light linear graining. It has gold tone applied numerals which are in good condition. The Rotary signing is clear.
The hands are original and are of lance alpha style. They are in very good condition and are a gold tone. The central second is also original.
The acrylic crystal is original and is in good condition.
The case is 9ct gold and is in good condition. It has the original polished finish, with light surface scratching. The lugs are good are sturdy. The knurled finish to the bezel is original and is in great condition.
The case back is formed of 9ct gold. It is in good condition with only light surface scratching. It has not been polished.
The watch comes on a new genuine leather strap.
The movement is a Rotary cal 725, which is an ETA 1080 base calibre. It has been customised by Rotary with winged wheel logo to the ratchet wheel and gilt finishing. It is manually wound and has a jewel count of 17. It has a frequency of 18,000 BPH and a 42 hour power reserve.
The movement has been recently serviced by ourselves. It is keeping time to within +/- 10 seconds a day, with an amplitude of 320 degrees.
Case width: 25.25mm
Case width with crown: 26.75mm
Case length: 26mm
Case length lug to lug: 35.5mm
Case Depth: 8.9mm
Lug width: 17m
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