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For sale we have a rare and unusual Breitling tool watch from the early 1950s. The case is marked with the reference 228-25. It is a chrome case, with a stainless-steel back. It has a charming dial with a highly unusual screw head/coffee bean hour marker design, with Arabic 12, 3, 6, 9, in a bronze tone. They are applied which makes them catch the eye. The hands are also a bronze tone, in syringe style, with a classic tool watch red painted second hand. The case is signed Brevet 238872, a patent for waterproofing. The movement is a bi-directional automatic movement by Felsa known as the Bidynator. It was the first mass manufacture bi-directional automatic movement. It has been serviced and is keeping good time.


The dial is the standout aspect of this watch. It has a silver gloss base tone which shines in the light. There are 1/5th of a second graduations to the outside of the dial, with markers every 5 seconds in Arabic numerals. It has the most unusual hour markers, with Arabic 12, 3, 6, 9 and screw head style markers in-between. These are textured and standout on the dial in their bronze tone. This neatly ties into the handset, which are of syringe style and are skeletonised. This is somewhat unusual for the era and a tool style watch, showing this watch was more about design than traditional functionality. The central second hand is painted red and stands out clearly. The Breitling signing is in the classic brand font.


The case is neat, measuring 30.5mm x 30.5mm, with a lug-to-lug measurement of 37mm. It is a classic tool watch and it has the proportions of the era. It has had the chrome plating restored, providing a good shine to the case. It has slight pitting but is in good condition for the age. The screwback is steel and is engraving with the reference 228-25, whilst also championing its anti-magnetic, waterproof and automatic properties. It has the Brietling name engraved. Inside it is signed brevet 238872, which relates to its patent for waterproofing.


Inside is the Felsa 690 bidynator automatic movement. It is a lovely rose gold tone and is in good condition. It is keeping time to within 20 seconds a day.


Overall this is a highly unusual watch due to its hour markers, as well as it being a non-standard design of watch for Breitling.


Full condition report below. Please see the images as these compliment and aid the description provided below.



The dial is original and is in good condition for the age. The finish is good with only some slight marks. The signing is good and clear. The hour markers have little corrosion.



The hands are original and are a bronze tone. They have some corrosion associated with age but are good and original with no bending. The red central second hand is original with some wear to the painted finish.



The acrylic crystal is in good condition with some light marks.



The crown is original and is in good condition, working well.



The case is chrome plated and is in good condition, having been re-plated. It has some light marks and minor pitting to the underside of the lugs.



The screw back is Stainless Steel and is in good condition. It has some light surface scratching associated with ageing and opening. The engraving to the rear is good and clear.



The watch is on a new genuine leather strap.



The movement is a Felsa 690. It is a bi-directional automatic movement, with a jewel count of 17 and a frequency of 18,000 BPH. It has a 44 hour power reserve.


The watch was serviced in 2018 by its previous owner. It is keeping time to +20 seconds a day, with an amplitude of 300 degrees and a beat error of 1.6m/s.


Case dimensions:

Case width: 30.5mm

Case width with crown: 33.5mm

Case length: 30.5mm

Case length lug to lug: 36.75mm

Case Depth: 11.75mm

Lug width: 16mm

1950s Breitling Bidynator ref 228-25 Rare screw hour markers Brevet 238872 Felsa

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