For sale we have a rare, unusual, and little known subtle Stainless Steel dress watch from Rolex. This 1940s Rolex Sabre lug dress watch is known by the reference number 4542. Rolex 4542’s can be signed Precision, Shock-resisting or Elegant. The movement quality varied too with some having a higher jewel count of 18, having super balance or shock resisting mechanism. This example has a 15-jewel movement with shock protection.
The dial is completely original. Many of the 4542s and other fancy lug models from the 1940s have had restored dials. The dial was originally an off-white tone which has developed a neat even patina, and now presents as a cream tone.
This dial is one of the best designed on the 4542s. It combines applied diamond hour markers, with arrowhead markers at 9 and 3, with Arabic numerals at 12 and cut off at 6. This is a configuration that is well balanced and interesting. The sub-second dial and Rolex signing also contributes to the balanced approach of this dial.
The round Stainless Steel case is well designed with a beautiful curvature. The profile resembles a smooth pebble with the crystal following the same curvature as the case back. The bezel lightly curves but appears almost flat when holding the crystal. The sides are subtly curved with a polished finish.
The Sabre lugs are the highlight of this case, cradling the central circular section. The lugs are beautifully formed, applied to the case and curving in two directions. They provide a great texture to the case, whilst offering an elegant touch. To the sides they have a brushed finish. This finish appears to have been re-brushed, whilst the other finishes on the case are original. The lugs are drilled to the left-hand side with one of the holes being off centre.
The Stainless-Steel back is snap on. It is in original condition and hasn’t been polished. It has the Rolex crown logo still visible, along with the faint serial number. It is signed with the serial number 470198, which dates it to 1946. Inside, it is signed: Geneve Suisse, Rolex, 4542.
The hands are all original and are in good condition. They are of sword style and are in a gold tone. They are free of bending and corrosion. It appears to be the original acrylic crystal. It has light surface scratches consistent with age, but no major scratches. The crown is a well-matched replacement and is formed of Stainless Steel. It is large and has a good coin edge finish. It winds and sets as it should and is in excellent condition.
The movement is a 15 jewel Rolex calibre. It is signed Rolex, 15 Rubis, Swiss made. It has two screws to the crown wheel and gold jewel set surround. It has an early form of shock-proofing. The movement is in good condition, but has not been serviced by ourselves. It is keeping time to within -22 seconds a day, with an amplitude of 245 degrees and a beat error of 4.8m/s.
The watch comes on a new Hirsch Rainbow strap for 18mm lug width. It has quick release springbars.
Dial:
The dial is completely original. Many of the 4542s and other fancy lug models from the 1940s have had restored dials. The dial was originally an off-white tone which has developed a neat even patina, and now presents as a cream tone.
This dial is one of the best designed on the 4542s. It combines applied diamond hour markers, with arrowhead markers at 9 and 3, with Arabic numerals at 12 and cut off at 6. This is a configuration that is well balanced and interesting.
The minute track is around the exterior of the dial, whilst the sub-second dial is inset. The dial is signed Rolex, Shock-resisting below 12 O’clock, with the Rolex crown applied to the dial. The dial is signed Swiss Made to the base.
Hands:
The hands are all original and are in good condition. They are of sword style and are in a gold tone. They are free of bending and corrosion. The sub-second hand is also original and in very good condition.
Glass:
It appears to be the original acrylic crystal. It has light surface scratches consistent with age, but no major scratches.
Crown:
The crown is a well-matched replacement and is formed of Stainless Steel. It is large and has a good coin edge finish. It winds and sets as it should and is in good condition. It is not signed Rolex and the original dimpled crown would not have been signed.
Case:
The case is made of Stainless Steel and is in good condition. The round case is well designed with a beautiful curvature. The profile resembles a smooth pebble with the crystal following the same curvature as the case back. The bezel lightly curves but appears almost flat when holding the crystal. The sides are subtly curved with a polished finish.
The Sabre lugs are the highlight of this case, cradling the central circular section. To the sides they have a brushed finish. This finish appears to have been re-brushed, whilst the other finishes on the case are original. The lugs are drilled to the left-hand side with one of the holes being off centre.
Caseback:
The Stainless-Steel back is snap on. It is in original condition and hasn’t been polished. It has the Rolex crown logo still visible, along with the faint serial number. It is signed 470198. Inside, it is signed: Geneve Suisse, Rolex, 4542.
Movement:
The movement is a 15 jewel Rolex calibre. It is signed Rolex, 15 Rubis, Swiss made. It has two screws to the crown wheel and gold jewel set surround. It has an early form of shock-proofing. The movement is in good condition, but has not been serviced by ourselves. It is keeping time to within -22 seconds a day, with an amplitude of 245 degrees and a beat error of 4.8m/s.
Case dimensions:
Case width: 32.5mm
Case width with crown: 34.5mm
Case length: 32.5mm
Case length lug to lug: 39mm
Case Depth: 9mm
Lug width: 18mm