Here we have an exceedingly rare example of a late 1940s Rolex “Gabus” Chronograph watch, reference 8206. It features the 18ct rose gold case, of which between 37 and 22 examples were said to have been produced. The case measures 29mm wide and is of the carré galbé form, with the scalloped bezel and standout stepped flared lug design. It represents one of the finest case designs to hail out of Le Locle by Gabus Freres. To the right it has the rectangular pushers with the Rolex signed crown nestled in-between. It has the aged, curved silver dial with the applied, facetted hour markers with the applied cornet logo at 12. It has the circular minute/seconds track with the blue tachymetre scale. It has the inset sub-dials for the sub-seconds and 30-minute counter. The hands are of Lance Alpha style with the thin central second with diamond counterbalance. The case back has the lightly brushed finish and inside it is signed with Rolex name, Swiss hallmarking and reference number. The movement is the scarce Valjoux 69 which is a manually wound column-wheel chronograph. It has been recently serviced and is keeping accurate time.

The watch comes with an uncommon period coffin box with the name of Charles Packer & Co Ltd of 76 Regent Street inside.

The reference:
It isn’t a reference that gets a huge amount of attention outside of traditional literature, despite its standout design and scarcity. It remains an ‘If you know, you know’ model.

It was produced for three years between 1949 and 1952. There is no concrete source that states the exact production figures. However, 38 seems to be the regularly touted figure for yellow gold and rose gold respectively. Some sources do state that pink gold examples are less common, which would chime with them being lesser seen in auction. Industry expert Tom Bolt states that 38 pieces were produced in yellow gold with only 22 in pink gold.

The “Gabus” moniker comes from the case maker, Gabus Freres, Oracier S.A. of Le Locle.

Their cases carry the Swiss hammerhead no. 141, making them one of the earliest registered case makers in 1934.

They produced a number of cases featuring “fancy lugs” with ultra-thin and Calatrava cases being another speciality for Vacheron Constantin. The Rolex reference 8094 features the same case as the reference 8206, but with a manual wind chronometer movement.

In literature the Gabus features in ‘Chronograph Rolex, The Legend’ by Pucci Papaleo on page 150. Pucci describes the model as a ‘magnificent and unobtainable chronograph’.

It also features in “The Watch” by Alexander Barter, page 140, "II Cronografo", page 81, in "Oro d'Oro 2", page 81, and in "Orologi Rolex".

Just 11 examples of the Rolex Gabus 8206 have appeared at auction since 1992. 

This example:
The dial remains original with many other examples having been restored over their 75 years of existence. It has visible discolouration and ageing to the original silver tone which is concentrated around the edges, with the all-important central section containing the signing, clear and well defined. The square dial has the convex curvature which makes it a joy to view. The gold hour markers consist of applied facetted hour markers with the radial layout, appearing to stretch towards the corners of the case. It has the applied gold hobnail markers at 3, 6 and 9 which balance with the applied gold Rolex cornet at 12. The centre of the dial has the detailed circular minute/seconds track, with 1/5th second graduations, in the black tone. Within is the blue ‘Base 1000’ Tachymetre snail scale. The sub-dials are inset with the classic railroad track to the sub-seconds on the left and railroad 30 minute counter to the right. Above the hand stack is the ‘Rolex’ signing with the ‘Precision’ signing below the hand stack. To the base of the dial is the simple ‘Swiss’ signing.

The hands standout with the luxurious facetted Lance Alpha design which perfectly complements the hour markers. The central second hand is neat and thin with the diamond counterbalance. Both sub-dial hands are original with the rose gold tone.

The case is elegantly proportioned measuring 29mm x 29mm with the 17mm lug width.

It is of the carré galbé form with the scalloped bezel with catches the light beautifully. The fancy lugs are of the eye-catching and complex curved, stepped and flared design. The thin edge to the bezel holds the convex curved crystal neatly. The scalloped, carved bezel design continues between the lugs. To the right hands side are the rectangular pushers with the flat face and subtly curved edges. Between them is the original, thin Rolex crown with the toothed surround. The external hallmark to the left-hand side of the case with the head of Helvetia and ‘L’ is still visible, with slight rubbing to the centre. The case back has the flat face with the lightly brushed finish. The edges have the polished finish, curving subtly.

Inside it is marked with the Rolex logo, with the Swiss hallmarking for 18ct gold with the head of Helvetia. It features the hammer mark 141 for the case maker, Gabus Freres. It is signed with the case reference ‘8206’.

The movement is the Valjoux 69 which is signed with the Rolex name. It is a scarce manual wind chronograph movement of small proportions measuring just 23.35mm, allowing exceptional square cases to be modelled around it. It has a jewel count of 17 and operates at a frequency of 18,000 BPH. It is a column wheel chronograph which displays the central 60 second chronograph hand, constant sub-seconds and 30-minute counter.

The watch comes on a Patek Phillipe leather strap which has the Rolex 18ct gold deployment buckle.

The watch is modelled on a 7” wrist circumference.
Please see the images as these compliment and aid the description provided below.
A further condition report is below.

Dial:
The dial is original and is in aged condition. The worst of the ageing is confined to the edges of the dial, outside of the main section of signing. The signing to the centre remains good and clear. The hour markers are good and bright with only light marking.

Hands:
The hour and minute hands are original with the sub-dial hands also original. A correct design of central second hand has been found and fitted, with this example originally having a black central second hand.

Glass:
The convex curved crystal is original and is in good condition with only light marking.

Crown and pushers:
Both are in very good condition. The crown has the well-defined Rolex Cornet logo.

Case:
The case is 18ct pink gold and is in good condition. The tone of the pink gold is good and even with the original finishes intact. The external hallmark is still visible. The case has a pleasing natural tarnishing to the lugs.

Caseback:
The snap-on case back is formed of 18ct pink gold and is in good condition for the age. The brushed finish appears to have been re-done to a good standard in the past.

Strap:
It comes on a Patek Phillipe leather strap which is in decently worn condition. It features the 18ct Rolex deployment buckle which is in good condition, with well-defined logo and hallmarking.
 
Movement:
Inside is the Valjoux cal 69. It has been recently serviced and is keeping good time, with the chronograph functioning smoothly. It’s keeping time to within +/- 10 seconds a day, with an amplitude of 300 degrees and a beat error of 0.2m/s.