This is a fascinating horological curiosity dating to the 1940s. Here we have a Hermes Paris, French made silver, concealed belt buckle watch. When closed it forms an elegant design with the polished central square stamped with the French Boar head hallmark. The top and bottom are angled and have the linear shuttered lines. To the underside is the latch which releases the watch face. The crown sits on the top side, facing up to the user. Once released the hinged watch cover drops and exposes the watch face. It is a classic dial with the dash markers and Roman numerals to the quarters. The dial has the ‘Hermes’ name proudly signed. The hands are thermally blued and are of index style. The case back is also stamped with the Boar head to the centre. The top is lifted off to reveal the movement, which is a manual wind AS calibre. It is in good condition and is keeping accurate time. The inside of the case is stamped with the French makers mark, with ‘EK’ initials, presumed to be Encasse and Krasker. The watch is presented on a long modern Hermes strap with the Hermes signed steel buckle. Double wrapped, this allows it to go on the wrist.

Belt buckle watch history
Belt buckle watches were a creation born out of the 1920s and were primarily aimed at golfers.

The first patented design of this type was known as the “La Captive” and was produced by Tavannes Watch Co. They were often produced for retail by some of the biggest brands of the era such as Hermes, Dunhill, Cartier and LeCoultre.

The original La Captive was produced in 1928 at the request of the Prince of Wales, who would go on to be crowned Kind Edward VIII. The royal expressed his interest in a watch that would be unobtrusive, that he could rely upon during rounds of golf.

A masterstroke, this elegant design shifted the watch from the wrist to the midriff. It allowed the time to be revealed or concealed when deemed fit. This design was said to have inspired the mechanics of the Reverso, which is an interesting link considering Tavannes provided the first movements for the first Series Reverso.

This is a fascinating horological curiosity for someone to enjoy 100 years on from its original inception.

The watch
The case measures just under 26mm wide, with the 52.7mm case length. It has a slim depth of 10mm to the centre. The fold out section measures 22.25mm x 23.5mm. The width for the belt is 20mm wide.

From the front the buckle has the tri-planed form with the polished central section, that has the French Boar head mark to the centre. To either side are the angular sections with the ribbed/shuttered lines. The release to expose the time is to the left-hand side of the centre. The crown is located to the top of the case, facing up when worn. The rear of the case is also stamped with the Boar head hallmarking. The sides are hollow, allowing the belt/strap to fit.

When the latch is pushed to the side, the time is revealed via the hinged centre secion. The central panel drops, greeting the wearer with the elegant silver satin tone dial. It has the simple dash markers with roman numerals to the quarters. It is signed below 12 o’clock with the Hermes name. The hands are of Index style and have the bright thermally blued tone.

To open the case, the central panel to the font is lifted, exposing the movement. It is a 17 jewel manual wind Swiss lever movement, by A. Schild. It has been recently serviced and is keeping reliable time to within 1 minute variation per day. The stem is long and is protected by the extended crown tube.

The inside of the case is stamped with the serial number ‘11448’. The rear of the dial is stamped ‘448’ which follows the end of the case serial number. There is a French ‘lozenge’ markers mark to the inside of the case. It was very hard to make out due to the miniature sizing, however it appears to be the initials ‘EK’ which may be for Encausse and Krasker.

The watch is presented on a long modern Hermes strap with the Hermes signed steel buckle. When double wrapped, this allows it to go on the wrist.

Please see the images as these compliment and aid the description provided below.
A further condition report is below.

Dial:
The dial is original and is in good condition. It has the silver satin finish and the signing is good and clear. It has slight marking to the edge, outside of where is visible when cased, due to contact with the silver case.

Hands:
The hands are original and are in good condition. They are of Index style and are thermally blued. They have the bright tone with only some light corrosion and marking.

Glass:
The acrylic crystal is original and is in good condition with the age with only some light marking.

Crown:
The crown is formed of silver and is original with the coin edge finish and extended crown tube for strength.

Case:
The case is formed of silver and is in decent vintage condition with light tarnishing and marking associated with age. There is a deep scored mark to the right-hand upper tip, visible in the images. The latch works as it should.

Strap:
The watch is presented on a long modern Hermes strap with the Hermes signed steel buckle. It is in very good condition.

Movement:
The movement is a 17 jewel manual wind Swiss lever movement, by A. Schild. It has been recently serviced and is keeping reliable time to within 1 minute variation per day.

Hermes belt watch measurements:
Length: 52.7mm
Width: 25.7mm
Depth: 10mm
Belt/strap width: 20mm

Fold out section with dial 22.25mm x 23.5mm
Dial size: 17.5mm x 17.5mm