This is a beautiful stand out piece, dating to 1940, made by Vacheron Constantin. The square case is expertly manufactured and neatly proportioned at 26mm x 26mm. It has a facetted bezel which falls away from the thick cut glass. This gives way to the polished case sides, with the right-hand side having a recess surrounding the crown which allows it to sit flush to the case. The large and exaggerated claw lugs are the centre piece of this watch. They have a beautiful full-bodied shape, with a tapered outer face towards the tip of the lug. These give the case a presence and increase its lug-to-lug measurement to 39.5mm. The inside of the case back has Swiss hallmarking for 18ct gold, with the Vacheron Constantin signing.
Inside this is the flagbearer manual wind movement, for Vacheron of the 1940s – the 1960s, the calibre 453. It is keeping good time at +45 seconds a day. It is marked with the VXN export code which indicates it was manufactured for export to the US market.
The watch is on a circa 1924 9ct gold strap with ratchet adjustment.
The dial is an older restoration which has been carried out to a good standard. The base tone is cream, in a matte finish. The hour markers are applied and are a rose gold tone. There are baton markers, with Arabic 9, 12, 3, 6. These are in good condition, with light surface scratching. They catch the light well and add texture to the dial. The dial has a square minute track, with thicker dashes for the hour markers. The sub-second dial is square and is inset. It has 5 second graduation markers, with Arabic 15, 30, 45, 60. The dial is signed Vacheron & Constantin Geneve below 12 O’clock.
The hour and minute hands are original, of sword style in a gold tone. They are in good original condition, with some light surface scratching. The sub-second hand matches and is in a gold tone.
The thick cut glass is original and has a beautiful bevelled edge. There are too slight scratches, measuring less than 0.75mm in diameter.
The crown appears to be original. It is in good condition and has a sharp coin edge finish.
The watch is on a 9ct gold bracelet, with unusual ratchet adjustment. The bracelet is non-original and predates the watch, being hallmarked to 1924/25. It is a good match for the watch and is of a high quality. When the fold over clasp is in place, squeeze it and the bracelet tightens due to the ratchet system. It was made by Maurice Flixher of Ropemaker Street, Birmingham. It will fit up to an 8 inch wrist.
The movement is a Vacheron Constantin calibre 453. The movement has 17 jewels, with a frequency of 18,000 BPH. It is marked as being adjusted to temperature. It has the VXN export code on it. It is in excellent condition for the age cosmetically.
The service history is unknown. It is keeping time to +50 seconds a day, with an amplitude of 235 degrees and a beat error of 1.4m/s.
Please see the images as these compliment and aid the description provided below.
Dial:
The dial is an older restoration which has been carried out to a good standard. The base tone is cream, in a matte finish. The hour markers are applied and are a rose gold tone. There are baton markers, with Arabic 9, 12, 3, 6. These are in good condition, with light surface scratching. They catch the light well and add texture to the dial. The dial has a square minute track, with thicker dashes for the hour markers. The sub-second dial is square and is inset. It has 5 second graduation markers, with Arabic 15, 30, 45, 60. The dial is signed Vacheron & Constantin Geneve below 12 O’clock.
Hands:
The hour and minute hands are original, of sword style in a gold tone. They are in good original condition, with some light surface scratching. The sub-second hand matches and is in a gold tone.
Glass:
The thick cut glass is original and has a beautiful bevelled edge. There are too slight scratches, measuring less than 0.75mm in diameter.
Crown:
The crown appears to be original. It is in good condition and has a sharp coin edge finish.
Case:
The case is formed of 18ct gold and is in good original condition. The case has a polished finish, which is original and naturally aged.
The case is very eye catching. The main body of the case is square, with the bezel being bevelled, falling away from the glass. The case sides are flat, with a recess surrounding the crown which allows it to sit flush to the case.
The large and exaggerated claw lugs are the centre piece of this watch. They extend 3mm above the front of the case, curving down sharply 3.5mm below the bottom line of the case. They have a beautiful full-bodied shape, with a tapered outer face towards the tip of the lug. Whilst being imposing, these beautiful lugs also help to protect the glass.
Caseback:
The case back is formed of 18ct gold and is in very good original condition. The polished finish has light surface scratching consistent with natural aging.
The inside of the case back has Swiss hallmarking with the head of Helvetia, signifying 18ct gold. The serial number is 286030. It is signed Vacheron & Constantin.
Strap:
The watch is on a 9ct gold bracelet, with unusual ratchet adjustment. The bracelet is non-original and predates the watch, being hallmarked to 1924/25. It is a good match for the watch and is of a high quality. When the fold over clasp is in place, squeeze it and the bracelet tightens due to the ratchet system. It was made by Maurice Flixher of Ropemaker Street, Birmingham. It will fit up to an 8-inch wrist.
Movement:
The movement is a Vacheron Constantin calibre 453. The movement has 17 jewels, with a frequency of 18,000 BPH. It is marked as being adjusted to temperature. It has the VXN export code on it. It is in excellent condition for the age cosmetically.
The service history is unknown. It is keeping time to +50 seconds a day, with an amplitude of 235 degrees and a beat error of 1.4m/s.
Case dimensions:
Case width: 26mm
Case width with crown: 27mm
Case length: 26mm
Case length lug to lug: 39.5mm
Case Depth: 6.8mm
Lug width: 18mm