Here we have an elegant and compact 1935 Longines broad bezel Calatrava watch. It has a Stainless Steel case, which measures 32.5mm wide. It is a neat circular case with the flat sides and curving tapered lugs. To the right-hand side is the neat original crown with the knurled edge. The dial had been restored poorly, so we had it refinished with a more appropriate layout and font. It is a black dial with the ground finish. It has the chrome silver signing with the railroad minute track to the exterior. The hour markers are the original Pencil/Arrow markers in the silver tone, with the double marker at 12 o’clock. Below 12 is the ‘Longines’ name. The sub-second register is inset and has the clean second track with the elongated quarters. The hands are of the Sword style in a silver tone, with a neat sub-second hand. The watch has fixed bar lugs, with the lower bar having been replaced. The case back is free of engraving and inside it has the ‘Staybrite’ signing with the serial number that matches the movement. The movement is the Longines calibre 12.68z which is manually wound with 15 jewels. It has been recently serviced and is keeping very accurate time to within a couple of seconds variation per day. The watch comes on a period Bonklip style of bracelet, made by Bentex.
It doesn’t get much better than a mid 1930s Calatrava case design.
We particularly love the Broad bezel which Longines used here. It is a compact, yet impactful design. Combine this with the polished silver tone Pencil style markers, and you have an incredibly stylish timepiece.
Sometimes dial restorations are a necessity. This watch came to us with such potential, having the elegant Calatrava style Pencil markers. But the dial was an older restoration with an incorrect Longines font. We decided for this watch to truly shine; we had to start again. The result is something much more in fitting in terms of font and layout. A black dial with the ground finish provides a sleek base, with the silver signing contrasting sweetly. To the exterior is the classic railroad minute track with broad dashes lining up with the hour markers. The hour markers are the original silver tone arrow markers, with the double marker at 12 o’clock. They have a polished shine and are applied to the dial, offering a welcome depth and texture. Below 12 o’clock is the classic Longines signing in the font of the period. The sub-second register is inset into the dial. It has the clean seconds track with the broad quarter markers. The hands are of Sword style with the polished finish, tying in nicely with the hour markers. The sub-second hand is elegant with its thin profile.
The case measures 32.5mm wide, making this a compact case. It has a total lug to lug length of 40.5mm which adds presence. It maintains a thin profile with a 10mm case depth. The 15mm lug width is an odd size, but luckily it comes a period bracelet that fits well.
This style of case by Longines is one of our personal favourites from the 1930s into the 1940s. It has a classic ‘Calatrava’ design, with a compact sizing that makes it a joy to wear. The broad bezel design is the perfect frame to the dial, offering a real presence on the wrist and tying in perfectly with the flat case sides. The lugs are an elegant, tapered design, curving inwards and down towards the wrist. The satin brushed finish allows the block nature of the case to be fully appreciated. To the right-hand size is the neat, knurled crown, which combines form and function. It has the fixed bar lugs, meaning it requires the correct bracelet or a fold over strap. It is worth noting that the lower fixed bar has been replaced and has visible holes for its insertion to the outside of the lugs.
The case back is the smooth dished design and has the brushed finish matching the rest of the case. Inside it has perlage finishing with the ‘Acier inox, Staybrite’ text. It is marked with the batch number ‘58’ with the serial number ‘5324861’ which matches the movement.
The movement is the Longines calibre 12.68z which is a robust and reliable manually wound movement, which has a jewel count of 15. It operates at a frequency of 18,000 BPH. It has been recently serviced and is keeping exceptional time to within a couple of seconds variation per day. It has a very strong amplitude of 350 degrees, with a beat error of 2.0 m/s.
The watch is presented on a period Bonklip style, Bentex ‘Bright Steel’ bracelet. It will fit any wrist size due to its adjustable design.
The watch is modelled on a 7” wrist circumference.
Full condition report below. Please see the images as these compliment and aid the description provided below.
Dial:
The dial has been restored. It has the black ground finish with clear silver signing. The hour markers have the polished finish and are in good condition for the age.
Hands:
The hands are original and are of Sword style. They have the silver polished finish, with some light signs of ageing. The sub-second hand appears original with the same tone.
Glass:
The acrylic crystal is a replacement which is in very good condition.
Crown:
The crown is original with knurled edge and is in good condition, functioning as it should.
Case:
The case is formed of Stainless steel and is in good vintage condition. It has the correct brushed finishes and is free of noticeable scratches or dints. The lower fixed bar has been replaced and is visible from the outside of the lug.
Caseback:
The snap-on back is in good condition with the brushed finish and light surface scratching. It snaps on tightly.
Bracelet:
The watch is presented on a period Bonklip style, Bentex ‘Bright Steel’ bracelet. It will fit any wrist size due to its adjustable design.
Movement:
The movement is the Longines calibre 12.68z which is a robust and reliable manually wound movement. It has been recently serviced and is keeping exceptional time to within a couple of seconds variation per day. It has a very strong amplitude of 350 degrees, with a beat error of 2.0 m/s.
Case dimensions
Case width: 32.5mm
Case width with crown: 34.3mm
Case length: 32.7mm
Case length lug to lug: 40.5mm
Case depth: 10.15mm
Lug width: 15mm