Here we have a 1935 Jaeger-LeCoultre Duoplan rear wind ladies watch. The case is of tank form and is formed of Stainless Steel. It measures 10.6mm wide x 22mm in length, with a lug-to-lug length of 30.4mm. It has a cream dial tone with the black arabic hour markers with the Jaeger name above 12 and ‘Fab Suisse’ text. Below 12 is the Duoplan dual level signing. It has the raised plus design with cut out centre, providing depth and texture. It has the thermally blued hour and minute hand indicating the time. To the rear, the case back has the defined serial number, with the rear winding crown. Inside is the Jaeger-LeCoultre calibre 403 which has been recently serviced. It comes on its original leather wrapped cord strap, which has the steel buckle signed ‘367’.
The Duoplan
Introduced in 1925 the Duoplan was one of the pre-eminent icons manufactured by LeCoultre during the Art Deco period. The Reverso was created some 6 years after this momentous design.
It was called the Duoplan in reference to the structure of its movement. The fashion at that time was for extremely small wristwatches. Yet extreme miniaturisation often results in a loss of reliability. The Duoplan provided a simple and ingenious way to reconcile technical excellence and elegance, with its movement being built on two levels. The lower level with the barrel and most of the gear train and on the upper level, the escapement. This enabled it to maintain a large-size balance and thus, more accurate timekeeping. The movements also had a higher beat rate for the era at 21,600 BPH, compared to the standard 18,000 BPH.
The design of the cases also meant that they were labelled as waterproof. By using lead discs and cork in the winding system, the main point of entry at the crown, was protected.
The Duoplan was also famous due to its early use of sapphire crystal which was labelled as un-breakable. The use of Stainless steel was still uncommon in this period and was another element of the design to be triumphed.
The calibre 403 we see in this example was a mid-size movement.
This example
The dial is a good original example which is an evenly aged cream dial. It is signed with the Jaeger logo above 12 with ‘Fab.Suisse’ text below. The Duoplan signing sits below, which resembles the two planed movement construction. The hour markers are the black arabic numerals which are clear. There is a raised section for the hour markers and signing, with the sunken central plus. This adds an intriguing depth and texture to the dial. The Sword style hour and minute hand indicate the time and have the thermally blued finish.
The Stainless-Steel case measures 10.6mm wide, by 22mm long without lugs. With the lugs, the length stretches to 30.4mm. Due to the movement design, the watch is very slim, with a depth of just 6mm, not including the winder.
It is a sleek design with the rectangular frame for the dial holding the sapphire crystal. The top and bottom have the double hook lug design, which the strap loops through. The sides have the bevel to the top section, with the notched sides sitting proud of the case, creating a two planed level to the case. The rear of the case is a rectangular section which is held in place with a pin to the top. The crown sits on the top left, with the directional arrow to remind you of its reverse operation.
The movement has an inner cover to further protect it. Once removed it exposes the calibre 403 manual wind movement. A beautiful and aesthetically pleasing movement which has a construction unlike any others you will see.
It is presented on its original strap which is the leather coated cord. It has the stainless-steel clasp which is marked with the number ‘367’. It is uncommon for Duoplan’s to have kept their original straps.
Full condition report below. Please see the images as these compliment and aid the description provided below.
Dial:
The dial is original and is in good condition for the age. It has the bright tone with only light marking associated with age. The signing is clear.
Hands:
The hands are original with the thermally blued finish. The finish to the hour hand has corroded somewhat.
Glass:
The Sapphire crystal is original and is in good condition. There are no marks to the bevelled edges or the main face.
Case:
The case is Stainless Steel and in good condition with no dents or deep scratching, only light surface scratches and natural polishing with age.
Caseback:
The Stainless-Steel case back is in good condition for the age. It has light scratching, with the clearly defined serial number. The pins either end are good and tight.
Crown:
The crown is original and is in good condition with light surface scratching. The winding arrow is clear and defined and the coin edge finish is good. The screw is original.
Strap:
The watch comes on its original leather wrapped cord strap which is in good condition for the age. It has the stainless-steel clasp with light marking. It will fit up to a 17.15cm wrist diameter.
Movement:
A Jaeger-LeCoultre calibre 403 movement, with 15 jewels. It has been recently serviced and is keeping time to within 2 minutes variation per day.
Case dimensions
Case width: 10.6mm
Case length: 22mm
Case length lug to lug: 30.4mm
Case depth: 6mm
Lug width: 5.7mm