The Reverso is one of the most iconic watches of the 20th century. Such is the models influence and staying power, that it is still produced nearly 100 years after it was first released.
The story of its inception is fascinating. After a polo game in India, Swiss businessman Cesar de Trey was challenged by the British officers he had been playing with, to design a watch that would resist the rough and tumble of their favourite sport.
Upon his return to Europe, de Trey discussed the challenge with Jacques-David LeCoultre, the director of LeCoultre & Cie. Together with the Parisian firm Jaeger, they created the ‘Reverso’ watch.
The case was designed according to the French patent No. 712 868, delivered on March 4th 1931, to the French engineer Rene-Alfred Chauvot. The patent was subsequently purchased by Cesar de Trey. In December 1931 he and Jacques-David LeCoultre founded a distribution company called “Specialites Horlogeres” to sell the Reverso, as well as other watches made by LeCoultre & Cie and Jaeger. The Wenger firm of Geneva was tasked with the mass production of the cases.
A quirk of the first series Reverso is that it did not feature a LeCoultre movement calibre. Developing the rectangular movement to fit the case would have taken the company too long. They opted to use the Lisica (Tavannes) calibre 064, which was the beating heart of the first Reverso’s.
The calibre 410 wasn’t ready for mass manufacture until 1933, at which point it replaced the Tavannes calibre in the early Reverso.
Aside from the reversible case, there were many aspects that made the Reverso such a groundbreaking and robust watch.
The Luxe model featured a Sapphire glass which was revolutionary at the time. It was 9.5 times more resistant than ordinary glass.
British ‘Staybrite’ steel was used for the Reverso, which was seen as vastly superior. It was difficult to distinguish between the steel and white gold reference due to the robust nature of the steel surface, maintaining its shine.
This example:
First series Reversos are relatively uncommon. They pass through the hands of world renown collectors/dealers and sell at prestigious auctions. First series Reverso ‘Luxe’ models are a different beast, rarer and often featuring dial variations that separate them from the pack.
This example is a reference 101 which referes to the ‘Luxe’ model with the All-Steel case.
It has a seldom seen black dial with the Radium painted luminous Arabic numerals. It also features thermally blued Squelette style hands with the radium luminous in-fill.
The black dial variation was stated as “Black varnish, with similar-style white or luminous hour-symbols and hands.” The black dial was also described as particularly easy to read and is the “dial of the future.”
Advertisements of the time stated that “The Luxury version is characterised by a specially made movement, sapphire glass, an outstandingly beautiful dial and a top-quality leather strap.”
It has evaded the usual monogram or crest engraving to the reversible cover and remains in good, unpolished condition.
It does have a tender message engraved on the inside of the main section, which reads “May 12th 1933. Peter with mummies love”.
The watch proudly sits within its original box. Very few original boxes survive which is a terrible shame, considering the joy one experiences when opening it. Each side hinges outwards to present the watch to you.
Sadly, it is lacking the outer tongue which stretches over the front and secures the hinged front together.
All case numbers match across the parts of the casing, with the serial 5739.
Inside is the manual wind Tavannes calibre 64 which has been recently serviced and is in good condition, with eye-catching finishing.
The watch is modelled on a 7” wrist circumference. Further images are available.
Full condition report below. Please see the images as these compliment and aid the description provided below.
Dial:
The dial is original and has the black base tone which has developed a matte finish in areas with age and wear. It has some marking to the surface in areas, with a circular trace around the handset, where a hand had touched the dial in its life.
The dial has undergone light preservation work. The minute track has been stabilised with in-fill of paint in some areas where it was flaking. The luminous in-fill has also been stabilised and has been infilled in missing areas with matching tones, to prevent further losses and degradation.
Hands:
The hands are original, of Squelette style. The thermally blued tone has some marking to the surface. The luminous in-fill is original and has aged.
Glass:
The Sapphire crystal is original. It has one scratch above the ‘Luxe’ signing and another across the top of 8 o’clock.
Crown:
The crown is a replacement which functions well.
Case:
The case is formed of Stainless steel and is in good unpolished condition. There is light scratching and natural polishing associated with wear. The side of the central section has a slight notch which has become larger, used to open the case. The two pieces of the centre case seal well. The three ribbed notches to the top and bottom are well defined.
The fixed frame is formed of steel and is in strong unpolished condition.The lugs are well formed, without major wear. The lug holes are well sized and shaped. The rear has the brushed finish with clear original signing. The inside has wear to the perlage finishing and the personal engraving.
The mechanism for securing the watch and flipping it works well. The tracks are good.
Strap:
The watch is on a new Darlena Genuine Crocodile leather strap with a new stainless steel buckle.
Movement:
The movement is a Tavannes calibre 64. It is a manual wind movement with a jewel count of 15. It is marked as adjusted to four positions.
It has been recently serviced. It has a daily variation of within +30 seconds per day. It has an amplitude of 325 degrees and a beat error of 1.5m/s.
Case dimensions:
Case width: 23mm
Case width with crown: 24mm
Case length: 32.35mm
Case length lug to lug: 37.5mm
Case Depth: 8mm
Lug width: 17mm