For sale we have a circa 1932 Art Deco 9ct gold ‘digital’ jump-hour dress watch. It has a neatly proportioned case, measuring 22mm x 30mm. The case has a polished finish to the front and rear, with three apertures on the front which display the hour, minutes and seconds discs. To the sides is a diamond pattern engraved boarder, which adds a neat design touch. The lugs are slim and short, allowing for a smooth, square case design, resembling a gold ingot. The hinged case back has British hallmarking for 9ct gold on the inside. It is from London assay office, with the date letter ‘r’ putting it as being manufactured in 1932/3.
The movement is an FHF calibre, with a digital module to the top side for disc modification to display the time. It is manual wind and displays the jumping hour, wandering minutes and wandering seconds. It has been recently serviced and is keeping time to within +/- 10 seconds a day.
The watch has the makers mark of Eyna Holko Podolsky. He was a Ukranian immigrant and the son of metalworkers, being an apprentice jeweller at aged 12, before becoming a skilled diamond mounter, setter and engraver.
He started his own business in 1920 as diamond mounters and watchcase makers, which was known as The British National Watch Case Co. He was subsequently the first man in Britain to go into mass production of platinum and diamond-set wrist watches.
He also undertook orders for other jewellery and commissions from private clients, with over 130 design drawings in his collection, many of which are excellent examples of Art Deco design.
Originally patented by Pesuex in 1924, this style of jump hour movement is known as “Heures Sautantes”. Time is displayed through small windows in the case, with a combination of “jumping” hours and so-called “wandering” minutes. This evocative design has been made in every decade since the invention in 1924 and continues to be one of the most sought-after styles.
We personally love these early jump hour watches from the 1930s. These perfectly encapsulate the elegance and innovation of the art deco period, whilst maintaining an element of subtlety with the clean and integrated design. The design makes time telling a very personal and hidden experience, with the traditionally large watch face being traded for small windows.
Full condition report below. Please see the images as these compliment and aid the description provided below.
Disks:
The disks are original and are in good condition with the original painted numerals.
Glass:
The lens on the underside of the case front is a replacement. It is in perfect condition.
Crown:
The crown is original. It is gold plated and has wear to the plated finish. It functions as it should.
Case:
The case is 9ct yellow gold and is in average condition for its age. It has light surface scratching consistent with age and some light dings to the front of the case. The sides have a diamond pattern boarder which is engraved.
Caseback:
The case back is formed of 9ct gold. It is hinged and the hinge is in good condition. It seals tightly to the front of the case. It has light surface scratching to the polished finish, but no dents. The serial number is still visible.
Strap:
The strap is a new black genuine leather strap, for fixed lugs with fold over tabs. It will fit up to a 8” wrist.
Movement:
The movement is an FHF calibre 99, also noted as an FHF cal 29. It is manual wind, with a jewel count of 15 and a frequency of 18,000 BPH. It has a digital display with minutes, seconds and jumping hour.
The movement is in good condition for its age and has been recently serviced. It has a daily variation of between +/- 10 seconds, with an amplitude of 270 and a beat error of 1.1 m/s.
Case dimensions:
Case width: 22mm
Case width with crown: 23.5mm
Case length: 30mm
Case length lug to lug: 37.5mm
Case Depth: 6mm
Lug width: 17mm