Here we have an uncommon circa 1927 Rolex 18ct yellow gold cushion case watch. It is marked as the reference 554 which is known for its unusual case design. The case measures 27mm wide and has the curved, solid back. The bezel is removed in order to access the dial/movement. The dial is the aged silver tone with the engine turned guilloche sunburst finish. The hour markers are of the Art Deco influenced Breguet font. The hands are thermally heated purple tone and are of Gothic Lance styling used by Rolex during the 1920s. Inside is the hallmarking for 18ct gold from Glasgow assay office dating to 1927, with the RWC Ltd makers mark. It is marked as ‘Patent Applied For’. The movement is the 15-jewel manual wind Rolex calibre, which has been recently serviced and is keeping accurate time.

It is presented on its original stitched leather strap which has the unbranded 9ct rose gold buckle.

During the 1920s Rolex offered stunning Guilloche textured sunburst dials. This is the aged silver tone with darkened hues to the exterior. The guilloche finish segments for each hour marker, providing a radial sunburst. To the exterior there is the railroad minute track. The hour markers are of the stylised Art Deco Breguet font. This is one of our favourite fonts, offering a further twist which accentuates the traditional Breguet numerals. Above the sub-seconds at 6 o’clock is the ‘Rolex’ signing and either side of 6 o’clock is the ‘Swiss Made’ text. Sandwiched between is the inset sub second dial which has the sectored railroad design. It has the grained concentric circles which add further eyecatching texture.

The sub-second hand is original with the lollipop counterbalance and purple tone. The hour and minute hands are of Gothic Lance style which has the oxidised purple tone. This is a result of the heat applied when thermally blueing. Sometimes the hands develop a tone closer to purple, which we absolutely love.

The case measures 27mm x 27mm in length. The width with crown is 28.3mm, with the total lug to lug length of 33.5mm. The case has a slim depth of 8.25mm which makes it a neat and comfortable wear. Originally a gents sizing, it is on the smaller side which is more befitting of unisex wear by modern standards.

The reference 554 has an interesting case design which clearly sought to play on the innovations made with the oyster case, but using a different technique with a dress piece. The main section of the case is formed of a solid piece, which has the angular lug design and the curved case back. The cushion shaped bezel is lifted off to access the dial and movement. The movement sits within the rear piece of the case and is subsequently well protected. To the right-hand side is the neat coin edge crown which appears original. The rear of the case is marked with the reference ’554’ and the serial number ‘38770’.

Inside it is signed with the ‘Rolex 7 World Records’, with hallmarking for 18ct gold from Glasgow assay office dating to 1927. It also has the RWC Ltd maker’s mark. It is marked as ‘Patent Applied For’, which is seemingly for the interesting case design.

The movement is a 15-jewel manual wind Rolex calibre. It has been recently serviced and has a daily variation of around 30 seconds, with an amplitude of 300 degrees and a beat error of 0.8 m/s.

It is presented on its original stitched leather strap which has the unbranded 9ct rose gold buckle. The buckle is a gorgeous shape which is very clearly of the Art Deco period.

The watch is modelled on a 7” wrist circumference.
Please see the images as these compliment and aid the description provided below.
A further condition report is below.

Dial:
The dial is formed of silver and has developed the darkened tone from tarnishing with age. The signing has lightened somewhat with age and exposure to light, which is common on this type and age of dial.

Glass:
The low domed mineral crystal is a good fit to the watch and has no marking.

Crown:
The crown appears original and is in good condition functioning well.

Case:
The case is formed of 18ct gold and is in good antique condition with the polished finish. It is free of large denting or deep scratching. The wire lugs are good and original. It does have some visible scratches, as expected with its age.

Caseback:
The case back is solid and is curved. The reference number is clear, with the serial starting to rub. There is a light dimpled dent to the centre.

Strap:
The watch comes on its original stitched leather strap which has the unbranded 9ct rose gold buckle. It is well sized and will fit up to a 7.75” wrist circumference.

Movement:
The movement is the 15-jewel Rolex manual wind calibre.
It has been recently serviced and has a daily variation of around 30 seconds per day, with an amplitude of 300 degrees and a beat error of 0.8 m/s.

Case dimensions:
Case width: 27mm
Case width with crown: 28.3mm
Case length: 27mm
Case length lug to lug: 33.5mm
Case Depth: 8.25mm
Lug width: 15mm