Some watches transcend time keeping and present themselves as works of Art. This work of art is a 1890s Le Roy et Fils 18ct gold ladies wristwatch, with the 14ct gold bangle. It has the 37 rose cut diamonds set in silver to the bezel, with the deep blue guilloche enamel dial and Louis XIV handset with gilt hour markers. The crown is the classic onion style with the pin-set above for hand adjustment. The watch head measures a well sized 26.5mm, with the bangle able to fit up to a 15.75cm wrist circumference. The bangle clicks into place and has the button to release, which is further secured by the safety chain. To the rear of the case is the stylised, engraved monogram. The inside of the case back is engraved with the Le Roy symbol and serial ‘4993’. The inner case back is engraved with the makers ‘To the Queen’ text and Le Roy 57 New bond street address. The movement is a high-grade calibre by Le Roy which is manually wound with 17 jewels. It has the end stones to the escape wheel, as well as the underslung ratchet wheel. It has been recently serviced and is keeping accurate time.

Le Roy et Fils were one of the early adopters of the purpose made wristwatch. The Advertisement dating to December 1887 shows both the bracelet watches and the offering of a gold bangle to fit existing watches. The price of purpose made watches ranged from £10 (approximately £1700 today) to 100 Guineas (£16,000 - £18,000 in today’s money).

Le Roy et Fils
Le Roy et Fils traces its origins to 1785, when the Parisian clockmaker Basile Charles Le Roy founded the business. The Maison attracted prestigious clients such as Napoleon Bonaparte, Le Roy, King Charles X, Louis Henri de Bourbon,Louis-Philippe I and Ferdinand Philippe.

In 1828, the firm became known as Le Roy & Fils, reflecting the partnership between Basile and his son, Charles-Louis Le Roy. After his father’s death, Charles-Louis assumed control of the business. In 1845, he sold the company to a trusted employee, Casimir Desfontaines, ceasing family control of the business.

The firm expanded internationally under Casimir, opening its first London shop in 1854 at 296 Regent Street under the name Le Roy and Son. By 1856, the business was also associated with premises at 211 Regent Street. Throughout the mid to late nineteenth century, Le Roy gained international acclaim through participation in major exhibitions, where it was awarded numerous prize medals. During the reign of Queen Victoria, the firm achieved a rare distinction as the only foreign clock and watchmaker to receive a British Royal Warrant. It also counted Pedro II of Brazil among its distinguished patrons.

Further developments followed in the later nineteenth century. In 1878, Louis Leroy joined the business, and in 1883 ownership passed from Casimir Desfontaines to his son, Georges Desfontaines. Expansion in London continued with the opening of a second shop at 57 New Bond Street in 1885.

In 1897 the firm began work on an extraordinarily ambitious timepiece, later known as the Leroy 01, which was completed in 1904. It represented a landmark in horology, comprising 975 components and 24 complications. It held the distinction of being the most complicated watch in the world for 89 years, until it was surpassed in 1989 by the Patek Philippe Calibre 89. This achievement cemented Le Roy et Fils’ legacy as one of the most innovative and prestigious watchmakers of its time.

The watch
Every aspect of this watch oozes luxury and is worthy of the Le Roy name, a testament to the maison.

The dial is the centre of this masterpiece. Formed of enamel, it has the complex guilloche finish with flowing waves, which play with the light effortlessly. It has the deep blue tone which has shades as deep as Royal Purple in certain lights. The minute markers are raised, having been applied to the dial. It has the period markers one the hours, with the dot markers in between. The gilt hour markers are of a Calligraphic serif form. They have a luxurious texture and finish, indicative of their hand painted nature by the artisan. The hands are just as elegant, of the Louis XIV style in a gold tone. These perfectly compliment the dial and hour markers, whilst being a nod to the French heritage.

The bezel is formed of 18ct gold and has the silver capping which is used to set the rose cut diamonds. There are 37 diamonds in total. Rose cut diamonds differ from modern cuts due to their structure and sparkle. They have a flat bottom with the domed top with the facets forming a pattern resembling a blooming rose. The result of the shape is a soft and more subtle, romantic glow.

To the right-hand side is the onion style crown which has a warmer tone due to the light wear to the plating. Above this is the pin set, used to adjust the hands. To the rear of the case is the hinged case back. It has the stylised, engraved monogram. The inside of the case back is engraved with the Le Roy symbol and serial ‘4993’. The outside of the inner case back is the proudly signed ‘To the Queen’ with the crown, a mark bestowed by Queen Victoria due to the brands Royal Warrant. It is also marked with the address ‘Le Roy & Fils 57 New Bond Street, London’ with additional text honouring the Parisian heritage - ‘Paris, Made in France’.

The bangle is formed of 14ct gold, making it slightly sturdier than the case. It appears to cradle the watch head with the scrolled form to the tips. It tapers, swooping inwards with the circular inset to the centre. It tapers to the 3mm width to the underside and has the open central panels. It clicks into place and is released with the push button. It is further secured in place with the fine safety chain. It is surprisingly well sized for the period, fitting up to a 15.75cm wrist circumference.

Dial:
The dial is formed of enamel and is original. It is in good overall condition with no obvious marking or damage. It has a faint hairline fracture spreading from 1:30 – 4 o’clock. It is only visible in certain lights.

Hands:
The hands are of Louis XIV style and have the rich gold tone. They are well formed, free of bending or noticeable marking.

Glass:
The crystal is a more modern acrylic replacement. It has light scratching associated with age. It fits the profile of the original perfectly with the correct bevelled edge.

Crown:
The crown is a well matched replacement as the original was massing. It is of the onion design and is in good condition, functioning well. It has a warmer tone due to wear of the plated finish in areas.

Case:
The case is formed of 18ct gold and is in good condition for the age with the strong hinges and tight sealing front and both backs. It has light scratching associated with age, but no dents or deep marks.

Bezel:
The bezel is silver capped and has the 37 rose cut diamonds set. They are all present and appear original.

Bangle:
The bangle is formed of 14ct gold and is in good condition for the age. It closes securely and the safety chain is strong. It will fit up to a 15.75cm wrist circumference.
 
Movement:
The movement is a high-grade calibre by Le Roy which is manually wound with 17 jewels. It has been recently serviced and is keeping accurate time to within 20 seconds variation per day, with an amplitude of 260 degrees.
 
Case dimensions
Case width: 26.5mm
Case width with crown: 27.75mm
Case length: 26.5mm
Length from circle to circle: 41.25mm
Case depth: 9.5mm
Bracelet width at attachment: 17.5mm